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roadhouse. As they have since the 1970s, an eclectic mix of patrons happily kicks up their heels to live music from 4-8pm. Lined up at the bar may be a leather-clad biker just off his Harley, a natty executive who drove his Porsche from his yacht, a deckhand in flannel who walked over from his fishing boat, a lab-coated scientist who rode her bicycle and a dread- locked college student who arrived by Prius. All are welcome, all get along famously. It's the nature of Moss Landing. "I love it," Retez says. "You meet the most interesting people here. It's a real cross-section of society." Indeed, what Moss Landing might lack for in population, it more than compensates with its plethora of outsized personalities. Harbors all over the world tend to attract audacious types; people drawn to the sea aren't usually the sort who sit in armchairs and watch the world roll by. It seems like everyone here has tales of adventure and daring—whether the stories are true are not is immaterial. And perhaps the best place to hear those tales is around the cozy, old-school bar of the Elkhorn Yacht Club. One doesn't have to be a Thurston Howell III to belong to this club, however. "This isn't like a typical, 'exclusive' yacht club," says another past Commodore, Howard Jones. "Our members are down to earth, working people." Located in the north harbor, the club has been in existence since 1946. Many mem- bers live on their boats at the docks just outside the clubhouse. Like the town in which it's locat- ed, this is a comfortable place; one where a stranger is just a friend you haven't met yet. Moss Landing keeps evolving. Thanks to organizations such as MBARI and the Moss Landing Marine Institute, the past bloodlust for whaling has transformed into a modern day 136 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • W I N T E R 2 0 1 4 The Whole Enchilada serves "Mexican seafood with a harbor view." In 1979, Ray Retez and his wife Janice bought the Moss Landing Inn by a gas station in "the middle of nowhere," which they turned into the popular restaurant. (Left) The Moss Landing Café serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and is known for its deep-fried artichokes and Cajun fish sandwiches. (Right) A funky decorated old school bus sets the tone for the diverse character of the village. 134-138 Moss Landing 2_152-161 Garcia story 1/27/14 7:45 AM Page 3

