CleverRoot

CleverRoot_Fall_2016

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3 6 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t WALKING IN TO KALI, A NEW RESTAURANT in the cozy Los Angeles enclave of Larchmont Village, the effortless blend of professionalism and West Coast chill impresses immediately. After years of working in fine dining establish- ments, co-owners Chef Kevin Meehan and General Manager/Wine Director Drew Langley pool their polished experience to offer inventive dishes from a Michelin-trained chef alongside a clever and concise cocktail and wine list, all in a purposely eased atmosphere. After the two worked together at iconic L.A. restaurant L'Orangerie, Meehan further honed his skills with the Patina Restaurant Group while Langley took charge of the esteemed wine program at Providence. Over lunch, after more than a decade of friendship, the duo created the Kali concept, which started as a pop- up and moved earlier this year into its own brick-and-mortar space just down the street from the landmark Paramount Pictures gateway on Melrose Avenue. In his role as General Manager, Langley oversees the beverage program. The cocktail list sums up the restaurant's overall approach: fine ingredients put together simply—so simply that it's hard to believe how the flavors marry so perfectly. The Gower Flower uses just four ingredients—Jardesca Aperi- tiva, geranium, lavender and pink pepper salt—and it exudes originality and grace. The wine list, manageable and focused, highlights California wines made in an Old World style, many of which are from Santa Barbara, where Langley has formed close friendships with local producers. The cuisine embodies the same ideal. The yellowtail crudo delivers clean flavors, delicate and briny with a citrus spine and a peppery nasturtium complement. The plate looks almost too pretty to eat. The black barley "risotto" finds its foundation on the strong aromas of black garlic and par- mesan cheese to harmonize with the richness of the barley. The meringue gelato, finished with candied yolk shavings, melds sweet and savory impec- cably. Only through years of trial and error can combinations like these be executed to this high degree. With Meehan and Langley leading this venture, Kali is sure to draw curious diners, but it will be the fantastic flavors combining simplicity and creativity, accompanied by fine dining service in a more nonchalant space, that will keep guests coming back. LOS ANGELES RESTAURANT KALI STRIVES FOR SUPERB CUISINE AND SERVICE IN A MORE RELAXED SPACE by Allyson Gorsuch / photos by Rachel Jacobson Composed DINING The magnificent meringue gelato. Chef Kevin Meehan plates another strikingly composed creation in his new kitchen at Kali. General Manager/Wine Director Drew Langley conceives cocktails utilizing Californian spirits and ingredients whenever possible. ■cr

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