Issue link: http://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/759645
34 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2016/2017 { steven spurrier's letter from london } ON SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 300 YEARS TO THE DAY, the great and the good convened in Palazzo Vecchio's Salone dei Cinquecento to celebrate the publication of a bando, or proc - lamation, by Cosimo III de' Medici which defined the boundar- ies of production for Chianti (today Chianti Classico), Pomino, Carmignano and Valdarno di Sopra. The bando represented the first formal piece of legislation in the history of wine that clas - sified the names of four areas and set their boundaries, which remain largely unchanged to this day. And not just regional names and boundaries, but declarations of production, governing bodies (Congregations, precursors to the modern Consorzio), export rules and fines for fraud. The aim was to raise the profile of these historic wine areas, offering economic stimulus to those who worked together for quality. The AOCs, DOCs and AVAs around the world share the same intentions and address the same issues as did Cosimo III in the early 18th century. That evening, in the recently-built Florence Opera Theatre, the regional representatives and their guests listened to Prime Minister Matteo Renzi, who was direct in his advice to Tuscan producers that "Italy must stop being afraid of globalization and reclaim a leading role, starting with tourism and wine and food culture, and Chianti Classico is an extraordinary vehicle for success for our country." This encouragement for the future of the Chianti Classico/Gallo Nero brand was welcomed by three objectives that had been presented earlier that day: A partnership between Chianti Classico and Champagne. Submission to UNESCO to become a World Heritage Site. Creation of the Rural District of Chianti, acknowledging the region's vocation as one of the most productive wine and food farming regions of Italy. The last objective is to take the image of the region's wines to help generate tourism, hospitality, gastronomy and artisanship. The second is a natural, to follow both Bordeaux and Burgundy earlier this year. The first is a very clever idea to link the two Cs—one white and sparkling, one red and still—which have absolutely nothing in common apart from being historically recognised wine brands and so cannot possibly compete with each other. This concept appealed to Manfredi Minutelli, Business Development Manager Europe for Alibaba, who spoke in the morning session to affirm that Millennials are the key target, being the present and future consumers. Consumption in China is 80% red wine, and France holds 55% of the market, Italy just 6% but growing fast. The entry-level wines in the market lack historical connections and brands can be developed, especially via the Internet, on their history, a very strong point for Chianti Classico. Over the two days, the meetings were more historical than vinous, but at the Gala Dinner on Saturday evening, following a marvellous programma musicale from the Florence Opera's top singers backed by a splendid choir, which itself preceded some superb celebratory fireworks, I had the good fortune to be at the table of Laura Bianchi from Castello Monsanto (Barberino Val d'Elsa), whose 2014 is the best I have tasted so far from that diffi - cult year, and Paolo de Marchi of Isole e Olena, whose Cepparello 2012 was superb. However, I had had the good fortune to attend the Tuscan Tasting earlier that week organised by David Gleave, MW, of Liberty Wines under the banner "Beyond the Bando." The bando (proclamation) by Cosimo III de' Medici defined the boundaries of production for Chianti in 1816. A Celebration in Chianti 300 YEARS OLD AND STILL GOING STRONG