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6 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2016/2017 by Karen Moneymaker / photos by Doug Young first press Helmed by Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer, and in association with Les Vins de Gaillac, we dived into lunch with the intent to acquaint ourselves with these unsung wines. Dexheimer, in addition to being absurdly well versed in the region, is also enthusiastic and hopeful about the wines of Gaillac. "Depending on whom you talk to, this is the birthplace of sparkling wine," explains Dexheimer to a packed room composed of wine professionals and visiting produc - ers from Gaillac AOP. "It is an ancient region, making wine for over 2,000 years." Located in the heart of Southwest France, Gaillac AOP is perfectly situated two hours from the Atlantic Ocean, two hours from the Mediterranean Sea and two hours from the Pyrenees. With its rolling hills and cypress trees, the countryside in Gaillac could be a visual stand-in for Tuscany, observes Dexheimer. "It is not like Tuscany, though," he continues with a smile, "these wines are honest, deli - cious, fun and geeky." Lik e many other regions in the South of France, Gaillac was "all about Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the '80s and '90s," explains Dexheimer. "Now there is a return to the indigenous varieties." A happy occurrence for sommeliers and wine professionals, as these wines will undoubtedly become the not-so- secret darlings for the BTG and tasting menu category. As we sipped, savored and broadened our palates, one couldn't help but wish these hidden jewel wines might stay unknown just a little bit longer. MAUZAC Thought to have been transported to the region by Roman merchants, Mauzac is a late ripening variety that makes crisp, high-acid wines and is often seen in the regional production of sparkling wine. LOIN DE L'OEIL Considered to be one of the oldest grape varieties in France, Loin de l'Oeil (meaning "far from the eye") earns its name due to the distance of the long-stemmed grape cluster from the bud. ONDENC This full-bodied and highly perfumed variety was once planted widely in the Southwest region of France. Ondenc's popularity declined following the phylloxera epidemic, although it has remained a popular secondary variety in Gaillac. BRAUCOL Also known as Fer Servadou, this is the predominant red grape of Gaillac, producing wines with aromas of red fruit, currants and soft tannins. "Braucol grows all over the Sud-Ouest and behaves differ - ently in each region. Gaillac produces an interesting textural expression of this variety," explains Dexheimer. DURAS This ancient variety was first documented in 1484 on a lease in the Lavaur commune of the Tarn (about 30 minutes from Gaillac). Wines from Duras are robust and distinctively peppery, although they are typically blended with the other red varieties of Gaillac. PRUNELART "Prunelart was a 'disappeared' grape until the early 1990s," Dexheimer notes, "when it was gradually replanted by a handful of determined producers in the region. A little known fact: Prunelart is the father of Malbec." Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer dives into the indigenous varieties of Gaillac AOP. GETTING GEEKY IN GAILLAC PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG