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98 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2016/2017 closing time IN 2016, THE TALENTED TEAM BEHIND CHICAGO'S acclaimed Piccolo Sogno opened Nonnina, where the cooking echoes old-school techniques inspired by the partners' nonnas (grandmothers) but served in a sleek, modern environment. Partners Tony Priolo and Ciro Longobardo brought in Executive Chef/Partner Chris Macchia (who collaborates with Priolo on the menu) and longtime Piccolo Sogno team member Ricardo Brizuela as Partner/General Manager/ Beverage Director. A key member of the Piccolo Sogno team from the beginning, Brizuela now oversees all operations at Nonnina, bringing guests the hospitable, familial ser - vice that has become the company's trademark. Born and raised in Mexico, Brizuela grew up fully immersed in the culinary world—his mother and father both worked in the restaurant business. Admiring his family's culinary experi- ences in the United States, Brizuela knew he was destined to move to America and make his way in the industry. Beginning his professional career as a server, Brizuela's resumé includes employment with notable Chicago restaurants Rosebud on Rush and Beecher, working at both establishments for ten years. Always drawn to Italian cuisine, Brizuela became a par t of Piccolo Sogno's opening team in 2008. With a wine list that's 90 percent Italian, Nonnina's beverage program is geared to go with the home-style food yet appeal to the affluent clientele of Chicago's bustling River North neighborhood. "What I've seen is people sticking with what they've been drinking for years," says the Beverage Director. "They keep going back to their longtime favorites." For Nonnina, that means Chianti, Brunello and Amarone. Obscure wines that require hand-selling are found occa - sionally. "Our sparkling wines are definitely popular, too," says Brizuela, "and not just for special occasions. People like to enjoy them at the beginning of the meal." While the list comprises around 250 bottles, including older vintages, BTG offerings represent an important part of Brizuela's program: "We offer 23 wines by the glass. It's very popular with our guests; it allows them to try different wines and change wines with each course." Staff training is, of course, one of his responsibilities. "We host staff training at least once per month and bring in brand representatives and winemakers to instruct," Brizuela says. "We host tastings and encourage ever yone to study daily." And what does the Beverage Director drink when he's on his own? "For white, it has to be Arneis from Piedmont, and for red, I always drink Amarone." —David Gadd Where Nonnas Know Best When it comes to wine, especially as the holidays draw near, some guests just have to treat themselves. The real show-stoppers at Nonnina are bottles ranging from $225 up to $1,200, and the higher-priced items in Nonnina's collection are meant for these bottle-popping occasions. "Very often people splurge because they recognize the value of doing so," says Brizuela. "They want to pay for those solid, strong labels. For example, Amarones such as Allegrini and Masi Costasera are very popular here." A few more high-ticket recommendations from Brizuela and Partner Ciro Longobardo: Antinori 2012 Tignanello, Toscana (Nonnina list price: $225) An intense ruby red Super Tuscan with red fruity aromas; filling and elegant. Giovanni Chiappini 2009 Guado de' Gemoli, Bolgheri Superiore (Nonnina list price: $426) Generous aromas of spice, chocolate and dark fruit. Gaja 2005 Sperss Langhe Nebbiolo (Nonnina list price: $645) A powerful Nebbiolo with a bouquet of dark fruit, pepper, truffle and licorice aromas. Dal Forno 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Nonnina list price: $1,200) A monumental wine with nuances of minerals, violets, new leather and bittersweet chocolate. THE SIDE BAR GM/BEVERAGE DIRECTOR RICARDO BRIZUELA TAKES THE PULSE OF ITALIAN WINE AT NONNINA IN CHICAGO PHOTO: GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF NONNINA