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w i n t e r 2 0 1 7 | 8 9 WINE OR BEER: WHICH WILL COME OUT ON TOP AS THE BEST PAIRING? by Meridith May / photos by Jeremy Ball SOMMELIER: Jenna Congdon, Granada Hotel & Bistro/The Station Wine Bar & Retail, San Luis Obispo, CA CICERONE: Bryan Rounds, Sales Manager for California's Central Coast Distributing THE CHALLENGE: Pairing appropriate beers and wines with a four-course dinner prepared by Chef Edward Ruiz of Sidecar in San Luis Obispo, California. As the Central Coast of California boasts spectacular wine country from Santa Barbara north to Edna Valley and further north to Paso Robles and Monterey, the craft brewers are waging that hops and barley will be as celebrated as the area's breweries continue to emerge. At the San Luis Obispo Mission, brewers and vintners engaged in a tête-à-tête, thanks to the selection of two of the area's knowledgeable industry professionals. The diners – about 60 in attendance – voted after each course. Here's the outcome: Course No. 1: Lobster potato bisque with sourdough croutons Beer: Tap It Continuum Pilsner Wine: Talley 2014 Oliver's Vineyard Chardonnay, Edna Valley WINNER: THE WINE The carbonation of Tap It's lightly hopped, German-style pilsner was fresh and malty, and the chamomile and caramel worked well with the fatty creaminess of the bisque, which also brought out the stone fruit notes. It worked well as a palate cleanser. The Talley Chardonnay was per- fumed with McIntosh apples and a lush, creamy palate that perfectly matched the texture of the bisque. Course No.2: Roasted quail arugula salad with grilled peaches in a honey vinaigrette Beer: Libertine Brewing Company Edna Valley Table Saison Wine: Sinor-LaVallee 2015 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir, San Luis Obispo WINNER: THE BEER Libertine Edna Valley Table Saison is a barrel-aged, wild yeast, open-top- fermented brew that showcases Central Coast terroir. It is dry-hopped with various varieties offering up notes of high-toned citrus, oak, cut grass and melon at 4 percent ABV. The tart-sour palate was elevated and softened by the protein and the fruit accompaniment. Sinor-Lavallee's dusty strawberry powdered luscious red offered fresh undertones of minerality. But the pair- ing of its savory notes was not as good a combo as the beer. Course No.3: Garlic and basil-marinat- ed barbecued hangar steak Beer: Central Coast Brewing General Schwarz Black Lager Wine: Clesi 2012 Aglianico, Paso Robles WINNER: THE BEER Central Coast Brewing's award-winning German-style black lager has notes of bittersweet dark chocolate and roasted coffee, with smooth malt flavors and a balanced acidity to make the already juicy steak even more succulent. Aglianico is a pretty rare variety to grow outside its native Southern Italy, even in Paso Robles, where the terroir seems amenable to many varieties. Fermented on the skins in clay ampho- rae, the high acidity comes through with black cherry and peppered chocolate tones. But there's too much astringency in the wine to be a better match than the beer. Course No.4: Cocoa pudding with candied pecans Beer: SLO Brew Feelin' Your Oats Oatmeal Stout Wine: Stephen Ross 2014 Dante Dusi Vineyard Zinfandel, Paso Robles WINNER: THE BEER SLO Brew's seasonal dark stout is big and bold at 5.7 percent ABV. Delicious notes of cocoa, roasted almonds and marshmallow are hedonistic notes that seem to naturally meld with the dessert. While savory-sweet tones of choco- late, fresh cigar and cherry come forth from the Stephen Ross Zinfandel, but, although elegant, the big body of the red fights with the delicate dessert. Sommelier Jenna Congdon's balancing act. ■cr