By EMMA BERRY
If, like me, you still haven't
quite adapted to the loss of
Champions' Day from Newmar-
ket, or the July Cup being run
on a Saturday, it's reassuring to
know that there are some things
in the unofficial headquarters of
British horseracing which remain
pleasingly unchanged.
The town's reputation as a cu-
linary wasteland is pretty much
justified but its critics fail to take
into account the smattering of
decent country pubs in the pret-