CleverRoot

s u m m e r 2 0 1 7 | 4 7 BARRELS & COOPERAGE We also experiment in cooperation with our barrel coopers, always posing the question, "How can we highlight what our vineyards have to offer—without interfering?" We work with artisanal cooperages who build our barrels by hand, with the owner/cooper paying close attention to the construction and toasting of each barrel. Thanks to this individu- alized approach and attention to detail, we can fine-tune and experiment with specific factors, such as the forest from which the wood was harvested, the age of the wood, the tightness of its grain and the length of drying time prior to barrel construction. Once wine goes into a barrel, we then have the opportunity to experiment with our barrel regi- men. For example, bâtonage: How much should we stir on the lees? For a vineyard site with the potential to deliver earthy, minerally Chardon- nay—a reflection of the character of the vine- yard's soil—too much bâtonage might interfere with the site's potential. These are experiments of restraint: omission versus commission. We are also constantly experimenting with the percentages of new oak versus neutral oak, vineyard block by vineyard block. Again, the experiments are site-specific, not formulaic. VINES & PLANTINGS Vitis vinifera on its own roots versus vines planted to rootstock: For winegrowers, this debate is akin to discussing sex, politics and religion—and there is no shortage of passion- ate perspectives. Some believe that nursery rootstock can act as a filter and affect quality and intensity; others vehemently disagree. The answer may actually reside in a con- trolled, side-by-side experiment. Of course, the incidence of phylloxera in a region must be included in this discussion, but it doesn't end there. LEARNING FROM OTHERS' EXPERIMENTS So how do we take advantage of other people's learnings from experimentation? Through gen- uine curiosity. We develop open, transparent, mutually beneficial relationships with people we respect—and we ask a lot of questions. I walk vineyards and taste wines with other winegrowers as often as I can. I'm fortunate to have befriended winegrowers and winemakers with great palates and the extraordinary ability to clearly articulate what they are tasting. In our tastings, we are always looking to identify positive and negative aspects of a vineyard, its farming practices and the winemaking tech- niques as applied to a specific site and variety. These tastings and the cumulative experience at the table allow us to see the big picture. There's a veritable cornucopia of inspiration out there! We launch a multitude of experi- ments in each vintage, some of which other growers and winemakers have already tried, and others we've crafted on our own. Some of these experiments will fail; others will succeed. Those that are brilliant successes are eventually put into wider practice in our own vineyards. It's an experiment unto itself when we apply someone else's findings on one of our own vineyard sites. yard's soil—too much bâtonage might interfere with the site's potential. These are experiments of restraint: omission versus commission. So how do we take advantage of other people's learnings from experimentation? Through gen- uine curiosity. We develop open, transparent, someone else's findings on one of our own vineyard sites. Embracing the Spirit of Experimentation I'm wildly curious about the "what ifs" in life. I believe one is either naturally drawn to this kind of thinking or not, and that a curious mind in search of a breakthrough will be naturally drawn to ex- perimentation. Sometimes these are experimental tweaks; other times, they're sweeping, courageous experimental leaps. I also believe that winemaking can follow a couple of very dif- ferent paths. One forces wines to fit a certain flavor profile or recipe—while an alternate path highlights a specific vineyard or place, with winemaking choices along the way to reflect the true character of the land. Within our own vineyards and wineries, our mindset falls into the latter category. That gives our spirit of experimentation a purpose. With each experiment, we ask, "How will this highlight the land and make our wines truly great?" When I'm tasting with wine people—from novice to expert, and everyone in between—I love to observe and listen. I am especially happy when someone tastes a wine and says, "Wow! I've never tasted anything like that. How did they do that? Where is this wine from? Where is the vineyard?" That's what drives us: the desire to make incredible, provoca- tive wines that reflect a place—the vineyard where the wine was grown—and to do so with courage, curiosity and a spirit of experi- mentation. Terlato works with artisanal cooperages for their hand-built barrels, which allow for more customizable fine-tuning on each barrel and always-evolving experimentation. ■cr

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