CleverRoot

s u m m e r 2 0 1 7 | 5 Scott Johnson, Winegrower for Frei Brothers. With its whitewashed siding and rusty metal roof, the Dry Creek Gen- eral Store in Healdsburg, CA. is a historical landmark deeply rooted in Sonoma County's wine culture. While the number of wineries and vineyards has rapidly expanded since the 1970s, the landscape really isn't all that different from when the store was built in 1881. After the Gold Rush, many settlers were attracted to the region's fertile land- scape, farming primarily wheat, hops and wine grapes. In fact, Dry Creek Valley has one of the longest winegrowing traditions in California, dating back to 1870. Just before the Volstead Act of 1919 took ef- fect, there were 256 wineries in Sonoma County. By the time Prohibition was repealed, only four wineries remained; one of those was Frei Brothers. Chef Gia Passalacqua steps out to greet us when we arrive at the Dry Creek General Store. Her great grandfather journeyed to Sonoma County from Liguria, Italy, over 150 years ago. After working as a cook for one of the gold mines, he settled in Alexander Valley, where he purchased 800 acres of land for ten gold coins. "He was a huge farmer," Chef Gia explains. "He farmed anything that grew here in Sonoma County—to- matoes, zucchini, peppers, you name it. But, he also planted vines." While the land has been divided with each generation, Chef Gia's father is still in the farming business. His ranch includes some of the original Zinfandel plantings from the early 1900s. Growing up in an Italian-American family, the tradition of food and family was a large part of their everyday life. "We always sat around the table together, no matter what," Chef Gia says, smiling. "I just grew to love it." CELEBRATING THE BOUNTY OF SONOMA COUNTY Chef Gia Passalacqua of the Dry Creek General Store in Sonoma County.

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