CleverRoot

f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 8 5 On a trip to California's Santa Ynez Valley, I came face to face with "Bubba," one of the world's finest marbled Wagyu beef bulls, from Japan's highest lineage. Weigh- ing in at one ton, Bubba led a harem of about 40 head of Wagyu cattle on a meandering spread. The 714-acre ranch is run by the Parker family; Fess Parker––the legendary actor who played Davey Crockett from 1955 to 1956 and Daniel Boone from 1964 to 1970, during the golden age of television––bought the prop- erty in 1988 and would build the Fess Parker Winery in the hills of this picturesque valley, located about two hours north of Los Angeles. His son Eli Parker, daughter Ashley Parker-Snider and son-in-law Tim Snider run the winery, while granddaughter Katie Parker rules the cattle ranch. It was Katie who introduced us to her herd, riding horseback along the beaten path—a cliché come true, as the hooves plodded on dirt-carved trails alongside high brush and gopher-holed snares. Our horses were sure-footed, and Katie led us through vineyards, up steep hillsides and along bucolic pastures to witness the beauty of the land. Raising the Wagyu cattle is a commitment to the Park- ers' new restaurant, The Bear and Star, located in one of the valley's small towns, Los Olivos, known for its tasting rooms, art galleries and stunning eateries. The Bear and Star was named for Fess Parker's roots, from Texas to California. "The Wagyu cattle are an integral part of our ranch-to-restaurant concept," Katie Parker explained. by Meridith May / photos by Jeremy Ball Katie Parker of Fess Parker Ranch and Clever Root Publisher/Editorial Director Meridith May on the backroads. Self-Contained Pink peppercorn, fingerling limes and a Meyer lemon mignonette layer the flavors of Pacific oysters, while the chives remove the brininess. (inset) Wagyu meat loaf is a main attraction, while the smoked ketchup and pickled mustard seeds add zest. Owned and operated by the Parker family, The Bear and Star is connected to their magnificent Fess Parker Inn. Although Wagyu beef was an inspira- tion, it's more than a meat-centric restaurant; Chef John Cox believes in quality from protein to produce. "This is a stable environment," he claimed as he showed us around his custom-built kitchen, main dining area, chef's room, two outdoor patios and a private wine galley. "The Parkers have a long history in Los Olivos, and The Bear and Star tells their tale, including Fess Parker's Hollywood lineage." Cox is himself a Texan, but moved around to learn his trade, from New Mexico to New England and then to the tony Post Ranch Inn, a luxury hotel in Big Sur on the California Coast. It was there that he met Eli Parker. "We talked about the slow maturing process of Wagyu cattle," Cox noted, "and from a chef's perspective, I couldn't quite grasp the value, although I always thought Wagyu unique." Parker and Cox were convinced of the value of taking charge of one's own herd. "We have the genetics; that is, anyone would want to buy this beef, but having our own control means we can even grow our own grains to feed them. There are sheep, chicken, quail and pigs on the farm as well. We are fortunate to be able to oversee our own quality here." In fact, Cox and his crew don't need to shop at farmer's markets. They grow most of their own produce on the ranch and the farm. "We own the truest year-round food production service," he claims. The Bear and Star: The Bear and Star Partner and Executive Chef John Cox with fresh quail eggs from the Parkers' farm in the Santa Ynez Valley.

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