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2 4 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t The Problem: Finding the balance between adequate work space and chef-friendly appliances. The Solution: The state-of-the-art stove and range combination Molteni Suite. The Problem Solver: Troy Knapp, Executive Chef, Blue Duck Tavern in Washington, D.C. WHEN YOU FORK OVER SIX figures for a state-of-the-art stove and range combination, you don't hide it away in the back of the kitchen. That philosophy is why diners at the Michelin-starred Blue Duck Tavern in the Park Hy- att hotel in Washington, D.C. can not only enjoy dinner, but a show as well: watching as cooks gather and labor with monastic intensity around a sprawling Molteni Suite. When Troy Knapp took the helm at Blue Duck several months ago as its new Executive Chef, he inher- ited the Molteni Suite installed a decade previous during a recon- ceptualization of the kitchen. And though there was a learning curve (this isn't your father's Viking or Wolf), learning the hows and whys of the Molteni was not unlike riding a bicycle—once you know how to ride a ten speed, a 20 speed can be picked up with ease. It's returning to more basic equipment that pres- ents the real challenge: After using the notably chef-friendly Molteni, you're spoiled for life. MERRILL SHINDLER: What used to be in the kitchen? TROY KNAPP: The restaurant was called Melrose, and the kitchen was tucked away behind the scenes. Then, in 2006, the hotel decided on a completely new concept—with a completely new kitchen, open to view. MS: And not just open to view— there are windows in the kitchen that bring in light from the street! People walking by can stop and watch you cook. Does that make the kitchen self-conscious? TK: It's worth the trade-off of not having to work under all artificial lighting, or even in a dim room, with so much beautiful light flowing into the kitchen. And if people were looking in, there needed to be a beautiful range and oven for them to see. MS: Diners also walk into the kitchen to take pictures—it's a tourist attraction for foodies. TK: They're welcome. Diners feel it's a shared experience. And they do get oven envy. MS: Does it take a long time to heat up the oven? TK: Actually, it's never been turned off. It's been on since 2006. There's always something cooking, since we do breakfast, lunch, dinner and room service. And it's aged amazingly well. It has a lot of power, runs hotter than most ovens. But the ven- tilation is great, so it's always comfortable in the kitchen. MS: Of course, the Molteni Suite is more than a range and an oven... TK: What I love is that about 80 percent of the surface is work space. It's a great canvas on which to spread out, as we move from one meal service to the next. Too often, the people who build kitchens don't cook, but the Mol- teni team understands how cooks work. Most of the Molteni is stain- less steel, easy to clean. There are places for cutting boards. We don't have to dance around each other—there's room for everyone. MS: After ten years of constant use, is it getting a little worn around the edges? TK: I estimate we've cooked 6 million dishes on the Molteni since it was installed. It's aged beauti- fully. It's kind of timeless. It's built really well. We've had people who come here just because they've heard about the Molteni, and want to see it. It's famous—it should have its own Facebook page. Troy Knapp, Executive Chef for Blue Duck Tavern in Washington, D.C. THE MOLTENI SUITE IS A VERY VISIBLE ASSET FOR TROY KNAPP AND THE BLUE DUCK TAVERN There Is an Oven That Never Goes Out by Merrill Schindler ■cr

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