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f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 2 7 The key element in either type of fermenta- tion, though, is the type of microbe or yeast that dictates the process, and, in the case of food, careful control of humidity and tempera- ture. "By controlling the microbe, humidity and temperature variables in a food fermentation, one can create a whole host of fermented, preserved products that are very diverse in flavor and texture," Chef Heubel says. "You can buy different microbes from different sources and use them as 'seasonings' to create a unique result or taste." Studying the fusion of food and microbiology is a young science, even though the processes are thousands of years old. "Most of the focus on food microbiology in the last 30 to 40 years has been on keeping food from spoiling. The result of that focus has been sterilized food that provides macro nutrients but has lost its healthy components for the sake of product preservation," Chef Heubel notes. "We all need microbes to survive. Probiotics have helped many Americans understand more about good microbes. As a chef, the trick is to know the difference between the good and bad microbes and manipulate them to keep food safe." Although Chef Heubel says no specific defin- ing moment pointed him toward a culinary career, he does remember making pizza dough in the morning before grade school so it would be proofed when he came home at lunchtime. He later turned that interest in food into a professional commitment by enrolling at the California Culinary Academy. After finishing his education at the CCA, Chef Heubel focused on working at Four Star, Four Diamond hotel properties around the country. His culinary talents bloomed at properties such as the Hyatt Carmel High- lands hotel, the former Four Seasons Lanai at Manele Bay, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bunga- lows, L'Auberge de Sedona and North Caro- lina's Old Edwards Inn. It was a former chef colleague from Hawaii, however, who finally convinced him he wouldn't lose his "edge" as a chef by becoming a chef-instructor at the CIA Greystone. He also serves as faculty advisor for the beer club on the institute's campus, and has more than 25 home brews to his credit. Chef Heubel's brewing prowess reached a new height in 2016, when his Belgian Quad Beer won the Anderson Valley Brewing Com- pany Pro-Am Competition. What Chef Heubel calls an "innate curios- ity" about fermentation has taken him beyond teaching his students about this fascinating process and into research projects, such as studying maillard reactions at lower tem- peratures and the corresponding effects on fermentability. More recently, he has been researching the fermenting process of meat curing, and although curing has historically focused on the preservation of meat, he feels there's potential to create better-tasting meats lasting not just weeks, but years (dry-curing utilizes specific molds for fermentation, rather than bacteria). Chef Heubel acknowledges the sensitivity most Americans have about mold, and he's quick to admit "there are definitely several things that can go wrong in curing." "Meat has a high protein and moisture con- tent along with a neutral pH, which creates an enticing environment for spoilage molds," he explains. "The use of salt and nitrates, however, provides the vehicle for dehydration while pro- tecting the meat from bad molds and sets the stage for fermentation by the good molds." Whether it's through beer or dry-cured meat, Heubel thrives on demystifying complex pro- cesses like fermentation, making them easier to digest without losing respect for the depth and breadth of the topic. "When you think about all the possibilities in the fermentation of foods, it makes my mind want to explode," he confesses. "I'm just trying to concentrate on specific chunks of this category." ■cr Chef Huebel's interests have recently turned to the fermenting process of meat curing, specifically dry-curing. PHOTO: WILLIAM HUEBEL

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