CleverRoot

f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 3 1 YOU DON'T NEED TO be a Proustian scholar to know food can evoke powerful memories. Come in contact with an ingredient or preparation style reminiscent of childhood or a special meal, and all five senses work together to create a rich tapestry of nostalgic associations. For Ricardo Zarate––the Los Angeles-based chef who just opened his sixth acclaimed restaurant, Rosaliné, as an homage to his late mother–– memories of his childhood in Lima, Peru, revolve around mealtime. As one of 13 siblings, he was part of a family where shopping and food preparation were handled with military precision. SERVES . . . Maggi Seasoning is found on a shelf with other essential cooking ingredients at Otium in Downtown L.A. SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES SERVES If SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES SERVES If SERVES Memy Zarate's Chifa—a term referring to a blend of Peruvian and Cantonese cuisines—dish of tallarín saltado reminds him of his childhood in Lima. by Carolyn Horwitz THERE'S NOTHING LIKE FOOD TO TRIGGER INSTANT RECALL. HERE, TWO CHEFS REMINISCE ON THE FLAVOR THAT TAKES THEM BACK. YOU powerful style together For sixth acclaimed memories 13 siblings, handled with military SERVES SERVES Zarate's Chifa—a term Peruvian and Cantonese saltado reminds saltado reminds saltado him of his of his of PHOTO: DUSTIN DOWNING PHOTO: CAL BINGHAM SECRET INGREDIENTS

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