CleverRoot

3 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t charm. Moments later, the gorgeous beef tar- tare with crispy farro, capers and slow-poached yolk purée arrived. With the rosé, the subtlety of the earthy and salty flavors was heightened; the sensory match in texture between the Chardonnay and tartare, however, made a perfect pairing. Beamonte commented on the Spanish influence of the tartare, noting the chef must have some experience with Spanish cuisine. De Leon smiled at the observation and confirmed he had indeed worked in Spain. De Leon attended the New England Culinary Institute before working with some of the best chefs in three different countries. In 2007, he joined the esteemed team at Alinea in Chicago, where he collaborated with Thomas Keller of The French Laundry and Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park. He also spent time in the kitchens of René Redzepi at Noma in Denmark and Jordi and Joan Roca at El Celler de Can Roca in Spain, both three Michelin-starred restaurants. De Leon admits he purposely drew upon his experience at El Celler de Can Roca in preparing the menu for these regional wines. As the next two wines filled our glasses, we moved on to the Next Great Grape—Garnacha. Beamonte introduced the Grandes Vinos y Viñe- dos 2014 Corona de Aragón Old Vine Garnacha and disclosed, "I think Garnacha is just such a beautiful grape. Everyone likes it. We are focused on producing high-quality wines from indig- enous varieties." The Bodegas San Valero 2016 Particular Garnacha also accompanied our next course of a caramelized onion tart with HausBar petit lettuces and spiced pecans (HausBar is a local, organic urban farm De Leon feels lucky to have nearby). The bright fruit and acidity of both wines bounced off the sweetness of the onions, a lively complement to a classic dish. "I was looking for a meat with a lot of flavor to hold up to these wines," explained De Leon as he introduced the next course of lamb chops with grilled endive and rosemary crushed fingerling potatoes. The Bodegas Paniza 2012 Viñas Viejas Garnacha and the Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2012 Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva (a blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Cari- ñena) matched the dish in different ways. The fruit became more forward and the structure shined in the Bodegas Paniza 2012 Viñas Viejas Garnacha while the Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2012 Monasterio de las Viñas Reserva really played off of the gamey element of the lamb. As we enjoyed our final course, the group discussion turned to how much these wines offer for such an affordable price—the group seemed genuinely and pleasantly surprised. "They're a window opener," Pinedo said with a grin. "I wish they were a gate opener, but for now a window opener." Garnacha from Cariñena, with its penchant for food-pairing and competitive pricing, certainly pleased our group of wine lovers. Caramelized onion tart with HausBar (a local, organic urban farm) petit lettuces and spiced pecans. Lamb chop with grilled endive and rosemary crushed fingerling potatoes. ■cr

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