CleverRoot

f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 4 3 I took a while for the world to catch on to the rosé craze, but Provence has been perfecting pink for more than 2,600 years. A drink culture that trea- sured rosé prevailed in France well into the 19th century, but Provence is the only wine region in the world to focus primarily on the production of dry rosé in a nod to its history. Many styles of rosé call Provence home. Côtes de Provence, the region's largest appellation, covers approximately 50,000 acres; soils are not uniform, and the climate varies too. The touch of salinity that Château Minuty M rosé demonstrates reflects its location by the sea on the Saint-Tropez peninsula. This contrasts with the orange zest and rhubarb displayed by Perle de Roseline rosé, hailing from vineyards located in the inland valley where limestone mingles with crystalline schist. Moving further west, soils switch to limestone and clay, which deliver the tart grapefruit and nectarine profile of L'Instant rosé from Château Barbanau located just northeast of Cassis. Côtes de Provence all! The appellation of Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence has the distinction of a remarkable landscape and dramatic climate. With 3,000 hours of sunlight a year and an aggressive wind, called the Mistral, the best vineyards are located in protected areas with the hills at their backs. In the Coteaux d'Aix en Provence appellation, Cabernet Sauvignon is a relative newcomer to the traditional Provençal blend of Cinsault-Grenache-Syrah. Cabernet Sauvignon is now incorporated into many rosé wines, such as Command- erie de la Bargemone and Château Beaulieu, and adds its signature touch of dark fruits and tobacco leaf. The vineyards of Coteaux Varois en Provence are sheltered from the fierce aforemen- tioned Mistral wind by hills and mountains, and enjoy a climate with more continental influences. Vines grow at an average elevation of 1,200 feet, which results in a slower maturation of the grapes, delivering very structured wines with good phenolic devel- opment and a powerhouse of spiced fruit. Rosé wines such as Estandon Vignerons Lumière, Château Routas and Château de L'Escarelle's Les Deux Anges are heftier and fall into the gastronomic wine category—they are built for food! With such diversity, The Clever Root tasked four superstar chefs with tasting the rosé of Provence and developing signature dishes to make both food and wine show to best advantage. The thought processes behind the pairings are both insightful and masterful, showing incredible talent in maximizing local flavors while showcasing a wine style with a legacy of its own. After the corks were popped and the food plated, it came as no surprise that the pros were pro-Provence. PAIRING PROVENÇAL ROSÉ WINES WITH DIVERSE LOCAL FLAVORS by Lisa M. Airey Many styles of rosé call Provence home. Côtes de Provence, the region's largest appellation, covers approximately 50,000 acres; soils are not uniform, and the climate varies too. PHOTO: JOANN ARRUDA PHOTO: JOANN ARRUDA A Legacy of A CHEF'S TABLE Versatilit Chef Bobby Palmquist of The Walrus and the Carpenter in Seattle, WA, was one of the chefs we challenged to make three dishes that paired with a variety of Provence rosé wines.

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