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Clever Root Fall2017

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f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 6 5 ends of the spectrum. The first was the Vidal-Fleury 2013 Côtes du Rhône, a dry, medium-bodied GSM blend with a touch of Carignan, while the second was the Marrenon 2014 Orca Red (90% Grenache and 10% Syrah) from the Ventoux AOC, a region also famous for its station on the Tour de France. To liven up the pairing, Gotanda added black pepper cavatelli to mimic one of the spicy flavors commonly found in Syrahs from the Rhône Valley, as well as a touch of bitterness with bok choy and tangy and savory notes to the red wine jus served with the meat. While the group liked the vibrant acidity and quaffable flavors of the first wine, the winner of this round was the Orca Red and the way its concentrated flavors of dark berries, firm structure and lingering notes of garrigue (wild herbs) matched up with each bite. A Moderate Price for a Modern Wine In addition to providing enjoyment through the wines, pairings and learning experience as a whole, the luncheon also showed a nice consistency of well-made wines from vintage to vintage. Marie Mertz, proprietor of Todo Un Poco in Elk Grove, California, said she likes to pair Rhône wines with her eclectic fusion of Mexican and Italian cuisine. Besides enabling her to include a number of selections on her wine list, the value-quality ratio allows her to offer Rhône wines at $8–$12 per glass. "We price our wines moderately to encourage our customers to try these classic wines from the Rhône Valley with a low degree of risk," said Mertz. "To me, it's a foolproof way to educate them and for us to make profit, too." From the retail angle, the bright, rich and fruity styles priced at un- der $20 per bottle allow a much wider range of consumers to try Rhône Valley wines and create food pairings with friends and family. For these reasons, Rhône Ambassador Fabunan says she enjoys helping educate wine directors, sommeliers and servers at restaurants in addition to supporting Rhône sales at retail shops across the nation. "In my opin- ion, the Rhône Valley AOC helps connect consumers to this beautiful area," said Fabunan. "On top of that, the wine styles are pleasing and engage the palate, so it makes it that much easier when there's some- thing for everyone." The Rhône Valley Vineyards Simplified Stretching 250 kilometers along the Rhône River between the influential culinary cities of Lyon to the north and Marseille, as well as the coastal region of the Mediterranean Sea to the south, this historic area has produced wines since the first cen- tury. In the modern era, the farming techniques have evolved in refinement, and the commitment to making world-class wines has spread throughout the region. As a result, the famous Côtes du Rhône AOC became one of France's earliest official Desig- nation of Origin certifications in 1937. Influenced by unique soils, hot days, cool nights and the powerful Mistral winds blowing down from the Alps in the late afternoon, the AOC Côtes du Rhône is now home to 21 official grape varieties and 86,000 acres of planted vineyards—mak- ing it France's second-largest quality wine-producing region. In addition to the tasty offerings of aromatic white wines, classic French rosés and a range of elegant sweet wines, 80 percent of the production is devoted to crafting red wines. In the Northern Rhône, the principal red grape is Syrah, which grows in the granite, schist and limestone soils on narrow gorges, steep slopes and terraces on either side of the river. As a result, the finished wines tend to be dark, rich and complex, with deep flavors of red and black fruits, mountain herbs, min- erals and layers of spice. The white grape counterpart is Viognier, which has a natural tenacity to produce sexy, elegant and complex wines with ripe fruity flavors and a similar spiciness. It can be blended with the other main white grapes of the region, Marsanne and Rous- sanne, or co-fermented with Syrah. As a result, eight of the 17 Rhône Valley Cru AOCs are in this small area: Condrieu, Cor- nas, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, Saint-Péray and Château-Grillet. By contrast, the Southern Rhône winegrowing area is more expansive and home to 95 percent of the region's total produc- tion. The noble soils include variations of sand, clay, marl, white limestone, gravel and an intriguing grouping of large cobbles (galets) in the flatlands. Although the area is home to a mul- titude of ageworthy Cru wines from Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau and other famous zones in the area, the majority of the fruit is used to make the elegant and approachable wines that feature the signature appellations of the Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages on their bottles. Grenache, the most dominant red grape in the south, is typi- cally blended with Mourvèdre, Syrah and sometimes Cinsault, Counoise or Carignan to create lively wines layered with ripe fruity flavors, hints of spice, soft tannins and a smooth, easy- drinking character. The same is true with the white wine blends, which typically include Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Viognier. In general, these flavorful wines are designed to be approachable when young, and are very user- and wallet-friendly at $12–$35 per bottle. This is especially true in the United States, which is the number-three export market for the Rhone Valley in volume, and the number one export market in value [2016 Key Figures report from IR]. The Rhône stars align! Rhône Ambassador Eileen Fabunan and The Clever Root's Deputy Editor and Advanced Sommelier Allyson Gorsuch. ■cr

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