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f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 6 9 CASTILLO DE CANENA available at www.oliveoillovers. com Olive oil production dates back to 1780 at this family- owned company based in a castle in Andalusia, a re- gion in the south of Spain. That long tradition is also backed by contemporary technology: Castillo de Canena has submitted its varietal olive oils to molecular analysis to determine their suitability in food pairing. Castillo de Canena Family Re- serve Picual, Spain ($29.95/500 ml.) "Light and grassy with notes of red pepper and lime." —J. H.-D. Castillo de Canena Family Re- serve Arbequina Early Harvest, Spain ($29.95/500 ml.) "Lovely varietal flavor with a spice finish." —David Gadd Castillo de Canena Arbe- quino Lightly Smoked, Spain ($23.95/500 ml.) "Notes of slow-roasted pork; strong umami flavors." —B. T. BADIA A COLTIBUONO www.demedici.com In the heart of the Chianti Clas- sico wine region, the estate at Badia a Coltibuono (Abbey of the Good Harvest) has been produc- ing Tuscan wine and olive oil since 1058. The olives are handpicked and harvested early in the season, and the oil has one of the lowest acidity levels on the market. Acidity level as well as harvest and re- lease dates are stated on the label. Badia a Coltibuono Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Italy ($18.95/250 ml.) "Buttery and smooth with round mouthfeel and rich color." —J. H.-D. PRUNETI available at www.oliveoillovers. com Gionni and Paolo Pruneti rest their olive oil company on a legacy of five generations in Chianti Clas- sico. Their production is based en- tirely on local Tuscan varieties— Frantoio, Leccino, Moraiolo and other minor varieties—sourced from the company's 26,000 trees. The olives are crushed within four hours of harvesting, just one of the scrupulous steps that make these olive oils consistent award winners. Pruneti Frantoio Bio- logico, Italy ($36/500 ml.) "Light-textured, with typical Frantoio varietal bitterness and citrus rind notes." —M. M. Pruneti Toscano Colline di Firenze IGP, Italy ($29/500 ml.) "Mild, bright and grassy with lemon notes." —J. H.-D. OLIVIERS & CO. www.oliviersandco.com Oliviers & Co. was founded in 1996 in France's Alpes-de- Haute-Provence department by a group of photogra- phers who wanted to share the tastes of the Mediterra- nean. The found- ers made a trip throughout the re- gion to discover "grand cru" olive growers and offer their products commercially. The first boutique opened in Paris in 1998 and led to international expansion. Oliviers & Co. A Capela dos Olivais, Portugal ($35/500 ml.) "Mild and fruity with some vegetal notes." —D. G. Oliviers & Co. Huile d'Olive Ex- tra Virgin (Everyday Olive Oil), Andalusia, Spain ($25/500 ml.) "Very neutral, mild and smooth." —J. H.-D. One milliliier of this olive oil comes with a micro- dose of 1mg. of THC, but if you're expecting a grass-green, low quality cannaoil here, you're in for a pleasant surprise. Pot d'Huile gives at- home (and professional) chefs the opportunity to elegantly elevate any dish that calls for olive oil. Caryophyllene and limonene terpenes on the nose lead to creamy Castelvetrano olive flavor with mild nuttiness. On the palate, lemon notes expand, morphing into pepper and spice tinged with just the tiniest hint of vegetal, herbaceous cannabis. No skunky, diesel flavors here to inter- fere with classic olive oil goodnesss—this is the perfect high-end finishing oil for the cannacuri- ous. —Rachel Burkons Madrid-based consortium of government agencies in olive-producing nations. To obtain the label of Extra Virgin, the olive oil must have free acidity lower than 0.8 percent. The United States Department of Agriculture has also adopted this threshold, but high-quality producers aim for even less free acidity in their products. More information about olive oil grades can be found online in a number of places (the website of the California Olive Oil Council at cooc.com is a good start), but we felt we'd rather spend our time and column inches talking about taste rather than techni- cal details. Our staff taste-testers—foodies all, armed with sops of artisanal bread from Lodge Bread Co. in Los Angeles—sampled a selection of olive oils from California and around the Mediterranean. in oil as re- stated Oil, Frantoio, other from The hours the scrupulous these winners. Pruneti logico, ml.) with varietal citrus Pot d'Huile Tahoe OG Infused Olive Oil ($60/125 mL.) www.potdhuile.com ■cr