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f a l l 2 0 1 7 | 9 7 especially "obsessive" about its growing process, according to co-founder Sean (who prefers not to use his last name for the interview)—that means "not using pesticides, growing organic [and] fertilizing the earth in a very specific kind of way." Upholding high-end farming practices can be expensive and time-consuming, so Lowell Herb Co. sought out likeminded farms up and down the coast to supply California dispen- saries with quality cannabis under the Lowell label. "We have to be aware of 'Big Ag' coming in and us small farmers not being able to compete," says Sean. "We weren't willing to cut certain quality costs, we don't have a lob- byist and we don't have big machinery, but by all of our little farms joining together, we can succeed together." A Network Takes Root This collective mentality is paying off in Cali- fornia, where small farms have deep roots. Um- brella brands like Lowell Herb Co., PremaFlora and Flow Kana give small farmers the distribu- tion and sales tools they'll need to get in the hands of consumers across the state. They also offer smart, high-end packaging that calls out the specific farm where the flower was grown: PremaFlora and Flow Kana both sell their flower in glass jars, while Lowell packages its premium pre-rolls in French beeswax parch- ment paper and an elegant box. "It you obsess over what you do for six months, why would you want to see that contaminated at the last minute by a two-cent plastic container made in China and filled with BPA?" muses Sean. "People who make a fine Scotch don't want their product served in a plastic water bottle, and neither do we." Longtime industry vet Jaime Lewis—who has launched cannabis brands in California and Colorado and is now launching her Mayflower Medicinals line in Massachusetts—agrees that attention to detail will separate the craft brands from the crop. "Cannabis will follow the food movement," attests Lewis, whose culinary roots led her to cite sustainability superstars like Alice Waters as an influence in her approach to cannabis. "I have built my brands to be craft edibles by looking for locally-sourced honey, chocolates and fruits. It's about paying attention to local farmers and supporting them just like you would in any industry. The real mission is about quality: not high prices, not high volume, not offering 250 milligrams of THC because you get more bang for your buck." Locating craft and quality products in the concentrates category can be especially chal- lenging, as vaping and dabbing culture leans toward emphasizing potency above all else. Brands like Biscotti, however, are defying that stereotype with boutique artisanal hash con- centrates, says Biscotti founder and hashishier Luca Collins. "Hash and rosin production rely entirely on the cleanliness of the starting mate- rial," Collins explains. "Pressed or unpressed, the resin collected is emblematic of the care the farmer had for his or her plants." Collins believes that as cannabis legalization is further enacted across the country, patients and consumers will prioritize a concentrate's potency less in favor of other, more personal- ized characteristics, such as flavor and heritage. "As more patients are allowed into the dispen- sary network, there will be a high demand for traditional hashish," he says. "We view dabbing and the potent concentrate market as a current trend that has an expiration date." As edibles, concentrates producers and flower farmers all strive to celebrate the craft of artisan cannabis, they'll continue to fight the good fight—but the irony of the "birth of craft cannabis" narrative isn't lost on longtime advo- cates like Lewis. "I was an activist in this indus- try before it became big industry," she says. "Back then, all we had was the craft cannabis industry. As we've transitioned from small farmers and communities to a larger-scale in- dustry, the conversation has changed. In many ways, like normalization and legalization, for the better, but it is important to remember that we were a small industry to begin with. Coming together in small numbers for the bigger piece and bigger distribution is the way to go." "We are colleagues, not competitors," Lewis continues. "Be the baddest—not the biggest." ■cr Premium Pot In the world of wine and spirits, special bottlings are de rigueur. As the cannabis industry starts to step in that direction, more and more prod- ucts and brands are rolling out the green carpet to offer their loyal customers an elevated experience. Lowell Herb Co.'s new Special Re- serve Black Label line features limited-edition releases from some of their favorite farms, ex- plains Sean. "Each farm we work with has their 'chef's garden' of their favorite varieties they grow and keep for themselves. This is a way for these farmers to share their favorite plants and strains with family and friends." Lowell Smokes The Founder's Blend, Lowell Farms An easy-smoking, full-bodied indica blend with subtle tropical fruit notes and a great, rich mouthfeel. Round, ripe and delicious. —Rachel Burkons

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