Issue link: http://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/928625
5 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t Hungarians have always been very proud of the historic nature of the country's gastronomic past, as well as its generous hospitality. A few decades ago, however, the rest of the world started to focus on quality instead of quantity, and Hungary had to face the fact that time may be up for those giant plates of schnitzel. Was this change in approach difficult to adjust to? Balázs Csapody: It's never easy to change old habits, but luck- ily many restaurateurs recognized it was necessary. Ever since Kistücsök [Csapody's acclaimed countryside restaurant] opened 25 years ago, we've strived to produce fresh cooking with quality ingre- dients. Today, every decent chef knows that quality ingredients are key and uses only the best they can find. Are these quality ingredients readily available in the quantity needed? László Ruprecht: We're on the right track and are getting access to many items we could only dream of before. We can get as much aged beef, lamb, rabbit, and Mangalica pork as we need. Duck, goose, and foie gras have always been important items of our cuisine, so it's encouraging to know that top stuff is available on the market, includ- ing great chicken from Bereg. The sturgeon comes from Keszthely and the rainbow trout from Szilvásvárad. The cheese culture has also grown immensely of late, and we've got excellent flour and amazing truffles. Csapody: May I add that great pumpkin seed, poppy seed, and hazelnut oils are made by small producers, and we are spoiled with fantastic vinegars, mustard, charcuterie, and fruit juices as Balázs Csapody is the Owner of Kistücsök in Balatonszemes (one of the most lauded countryside restaurants), Founder and President of Academy of Pannon Gastronomy Association, and one of the Hungary's best- known restaurateurs. László Ruprecht is the President of SVÉT—an association representing the countryside's top restaurants— as well as a creative chef at numerous restaurants and the Pannónia Gastro-Boat. With gorgeous sights and culinary adventures waiting at every turn, the Tokaj wine region is one of Hungary's hidden gems for foodies of all persuasions.