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w i n t e r 2 0 1 8 | 6 1 TOIRO, Los Angeles Whenever Naoko Takei Moore made rice in her thick-walled, double-lidded clay donabe, friends immediately wanted one, too—and so began a new business. The Tokyo expat located the earthenware casseroles, made for eight generations by a family firm in Iga, Japan, and started selling donabe online from her tiny Los Angeles bungalow. Last fall, she opened TOIRO, where she stocks roughly 50 styles of donabe glazed in dark brown, cream, or buttery yel- low. She also has that original rice cooker (aka kamado-san), a gorgeous clay steamer, and special donabe for braises and stews, as well as a version for smoking or grilling. If you've never cooked with clay before, pick up a copy of Moore's book Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking, co-written with Kyle Connaughton of Single- Thread Restaurant and Inn in Sonoma wine country. You'll also gain insight into the Japanese cookware and ceramics Moore herself uses every day. Soon to come: cooking classes and spe- cial events in the new space. TOIRO, 1257 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, 323-380-5052, toirokitchen.com TOIRO Owner Naoko Takei Moore demonstrates cooking with the donabes on sale at her L.A. shop. Marine Area 7 is a haven for lovers of quirky kitchenware in Seattle. MARINE AREA 7, Seattle Every time I scroll through photographer Jim Henkens' Instagram ac- count, I want to hop on a plane to Seattle and visit his singular kitch- enware shop there. By working as a food photographer for years (see Renee Erickson's cookbook A Boat, a Whale & a Walrus: Menus and Stories), he amassed a huge stash of kitchen props. The collection was taking over his house until Henkens and his wife, Jennifer, decided to open a quirky shop. Marine Area 7, which turned three in December, is a paradise for the passionate cook. Vintage French copper pans polished and re-tinned by hand, heavy old hotel silverware, refurbished German carbon steel chef's knives, and antique corkscrews are oh-so-easily covetable. Make sure to handle with care: The constantly-rotating array of goods includes generously-sized porcelain mortar and pestles, pudgy black clay pots from Colombia, rustic Moroccan tagines, and antique French transferware serving pieces covered in birds and flowers. Check out the shop's gourmet pantry for Sqrl jam, Lummi Island wild-canned albacore tuna, and more. Henkens built a kitchen in back two years ago so he could bake bread and simmer braised stews and soups while he works. He holds private dinners there roughly three or four times a month—we highly recom- mend you sign up. MARINE AREA 7, 2814 E. Madison St., Seattle, 206-323-9141, marinearea7.com PHOTO: YOSHIHIRO MAKINO PHOTO: JIM HENKENS ■cr