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A TASTE OF ITALY ON THE PIER Encounter Maurizio Cutrignelli inside his restaurant Osteria al Mare next to the Coast Guard Pier in Monterey and it feels as though he's mistaken you for a long-lost friend. His warm smile and familiar gaze suggests a genuine kinship. As he ushers you to your table, presenting with a wave of his hand the unique view of the Monterey Bay, he'll describe almost poetically a luscious manicotti filling or how the glinting squid boats remind him of his childhood on the coastal "heel" of Italy's boot. Hospitality comes first at Osteria al Mare, followed by fresh, from-the-hear t Italian com- for t food. "Simple with flavor," says Maurizio, who's per- fected that concept for decades at Maurizio's in Morgan Hill. Early Osteria favorites include: beer-braised pork shank with risotto; Barolo-braised short ribs with cipollini onion; and fettuccine pescatora (clams, shrimp, mussels, calamari and tomato sauce). Osteria al Mare opened in May following renovations to the upstairs space long occu- pied by Massaro & Santos. This lofty perch unveils an unusual vantage point as the bay, the harbor and frenetic Fisherman's Wharf unfold in the distance. "I fell in love with it: the smell of the ocean, the view," he says. "It's perfect." Osteria al Mare is located at 32 Cannery Row in Monterey. 831/920-2833. MONTEREY ADOBE COMPLEX COMES TO LIFE In 2009, Kirk Probasco closed his popular restaurant Stokes and walked away from one of Monterey's most time-honored adobes. Nine years later, he's embraced another 238 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • S U M M E R / F A L L 2 0 1 8 Sara and Maurizio Cutrignelli, with daughter Adri, run Osteria al Mare adjacent to the Coast Guard Pier in Monterey. Delicious options, served with a view of the Monterey Bay, include Barolo-braised short ribs and fettuccine pescatora. Photo: Kelli Uldall food for thought Italian Delights on the Bay; Cooper Moler a Adobe Tr ansfor ms into New Eater y; and Unbeatable Nachos B Y L A R R Y H A R L A N D