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110 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 A Passion for Appassimento: A SARTORIAL APPROACH TO CLASSIC VERONESE TECHNIQUE REGIONS: Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Rosso delle Venezie IGT, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, and Bianco Veronese IGT WINESTASTING: This section provided an excellent illustration of how Valpolicella's appellation system is structured. Students tasted their way to the top of the pyramid from the Valpolicella Classico to Amarone (excepting Recioto): Sartori di Verona's 2016 Ferdi, 2014 Valpolicella, 2013 L'Appassione, 2013 Regolo Ripasso, 2014 Amarone, 2010 Corte Bra Amarone, and 2009 I Saltari Amarone. FACTS Because it best handles the drying process, Corvina is the most favored grape in Valpolicella and must repre- sent 45–95% of the blend. Corvinone can be used as a substitute for Cor- vina for up to 50%, while Rondinella is approved at 5–30%. Secondary grapes like Molinara, native Oseleta, and Croatina, meanwhile, can make up to 25% of the blend. The mild climate of Valpolicella is tempered by Lake Garda and the Monti Lessini, which protect the area's fan-shaped band of hills and valleys from cold northern winds. In a hectare's worth of production, only 40 percent will be used for Amarone. Due to Corvina's sensitivity to sun, the pergola training system is used in 70 percent of Valpolicella's vineyards. Professor's Perspective "I represent the fourth generation of the Sartori family and we're cel- ebrating a lot this year : 120 years of Sartori, 50 years of the Valpolicella DOC appellation, and, on top of that, 15 years with Ban. Regolo, my grandfather, is the one who decided that the wine was the future of our family. The [Sartori di Verona Regolo Ripasso] wine is a 100% Corvina. We wanted to make a wine that was like his personality—very straight - forward. Without Regolo, we wouldn't be here." —Andrea Sartori, Family Proprietor, Sartori di Verona "If you taste the Ferdi [a white wine featuring 100% Garganega dried and made using the same technique as Amarone], I think you'll nd that it's not intimidated by these other wines. This is just like my grandmother : beautiful and elegant." —Sartori Not Your Nonna's Marsala: SICILY'S SWEET COMPLEXITY REGION: Marsala, Sicily WINESTASTING: This served as an afrmation of the tempering effect of oxygen, wood, and time on fortied wine. Students tasted a 2017 Grillo base wine; Targa 2015 and 2010 cask samples; the Cantine Florio 2004 Targa Riserva 1840 (current release); and a Targa 2004 cask sample that has remained in barrel since its release. They also nosed a 2017 Mosto Cotto. FACTS Marsala can be classied as either Marsala Vergine (ve years on wood), Marsala Superiore (at least two years on wood) or Marsal Fine (one year on wood). It can also be classied by color type— oro (gold), ambra (amber), and the rarest, rubino (ruby)—and/or by residual sugar : secco (dry, less than 4%), semisecco (semi-dry, 4–10%), and dolce (sweet, more than 10%). Professor's Perspective "When John Woodhouse, a captain of a merchant ship from the U.K., found himself tossed in the port of Marsala by a storm in 1773, he did what you do when you land in a port—you go to the bar. And what did he nd? What we have in the rst glass [the 2017 Grillo with seven grams of glycerol] is a wine typical of Marsala at the time. He bought some barrels of this wine, added alcohol for the long trip, and went through a few storms on the way back to the U.K., so luckily this wine had the ability to oxi - dize. The rest is history." —Roberto Magnisi, Quality Control Director, Florio "This is one of the most underrated wines in the world, in my opinion. Florio was really the rst Sicil- ian producer of Marsala. The very rst were British, of course." —Maurizio Broggi PHOTO: ROBERT GOMEZ Roberto Magnisi speaks poetically about Marsala as Lars Leicht translates. PHOTO: JOHN CURLEY Andrea Sartori says he strives to make a lower-alcohol Amarone because he prefers wine with his meal, "not Port." PHOTO: ROBERT GOMEZ PHOTO: ROBERT GOMEZ