The Somm Journal

SOMM Journal OctNov 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 55 "Our winemaking techniques are intended to highlight the freshness of the fruit and obtain well-balanced acidity, bright colors, good structure, and intense red tones in the case of red wines. All in all, we want wines that stay young and elegant with the passing of time and that are, at the same time, easy to drink." —El Esteco Winemaker Alejandro Pepa On Top of the World The team behind El Esteco likes to say they make wines "from where the clouds are born." Considering they're growing grapes in a region with the world's highest vineyards—located from 5,600 to 9,800 feet above sea level—that's not too much of a stretch. "The high altitude of the Calchaquí Valleys is certainly a chief factor contributing to the unique quality of the grapes and of the resulting wines," says Pepa, adding that the elevation provides conditions conducive to slower ripening, even in a desert climate. Temperatures vary greatly as they transition from warm days to cool nights, but even in the height of summer, the high hovers around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The Andes Mountains also serve to protect the region from humidity, minimizing the need for pest control. Sandy soils, mean - while, cause the vines to struggle, resulting in premium clusters that thrive under constant sun exposure (the region sees on average just 0.6 inches of rain annually). From these factors emerges an ideal terroir : The Calchaquí Valleys produce wines with a greater concentration of fruit, structure, and body, as well as enhanced aromas, coloring, and avors. The climate also produces remarkably consistent harvests, enabling El Esteco to produce distinctive, quality wines vintage after vintage. A Diamond in the Desert Despite their advantageous conditions, the Calchaquí Valleys remain the country's best-kept secret for winemaking: Less than 3 percent of Argentine wine hails from this remote region. According to Pepa, its star grape is without a doubt Torrontés, a white variety known for producing fresh and extremely aromatic wines with a smooth texture and moderate acidity. Chardonnay is another popular grape grown in the Calchaquí Valleys, while the most common reds are Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tannat. El Esteco, how - ever, works with roughly a dozen varieties, from Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc to Merlot and Pinot Noir. As trailblazers in the region, the winery continues to lead the charge into the future of the Argentinian wine industry and has begun experimenting with unique plantings of Marsanne and Roussanne, featuring both in a new offering known as the El Esteco Blanc de Blancs. The winery also utilizes the latest advancements in equipment, including con - crete egg tanks and 6,000-liter French oak casks known as foudres, to continue rening the quality of its wines. "We have, above all, great respect for the features of the terroir and of each varietal," Pepa says. "Our winemaking techniques are intended to highlight the freshness of the fruit and obtain well-balanced acidity, bright colors, good structure, and intense red tones in the case of the red wines. All in all, we want wines that stay young and elegant with the passing of time and that are, at the same time, easy to drink." Bodega El Esteco is imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons.

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