The Somm Journal

SOMM Journal OctNov 2018

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Dear Good Somm/Bad Somm, I recently had dinner at a hot new restaurant in Downtown L.A. The setting was beautiful, the server was great, and the food was on point. But when I asked for the sommelier, the person who arrived at my table was a casually dressed and dirty-looking 20-something with bedhead and a bad attitude. His manner was so inhospitable, he nearly ruined our meal. I understand the new wave of young somms are bucking against the trends, but is it not still a "service" position? Sincerely, Hipster or Horrible? Dear Hipster or Horrible, People dine out to be taken care of, and most of the world's top restaurants pride themselves on their service. Sommeliers play a crucial role in this, so with regard to your somm's attitude, Maya Angelou said it best: "I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel." In this case, those "feelings" will determine whether a guest returns to an establishment or spreads the word on how terrible of an experience they had. The bottom line is this: If a customer pays $100-plus for their meal and wine, they should receive kind service and warm hospitality from the entire staff. Sincerely, Good Somm Dear Hipster or Horrible, Frankly, there's just not a lot of budget left for these somm posi - tions anymore, let alone some esteemed beverage director with a bloated salary. Those days are over. Because of this, a lot of these mid-tier, chef-driven restaurants are forced to give the keys to the wine program over to anyone who claims to know about wine and who is willing to work 50 hours a week for what, $38,000 plus tips? What you get at that price range are very inexperienced, not-so-service-oriented somms with no real condence and no real palate. And they'll mask their insecurity with this aloof, "too- cool-for-school" attitude you speak of. That doesn't mean they won't grow and get better in the long run, but in the meantime, we all have to silently bite our tongues and watch them walk around pretending they're the next Rajat Parr, when they're really just Sub Parr. Yours Truly, Bad Somm Dear Good Somm/Bad Somm, I saw another sommelier on my dating app and don't know whether to swipe left or right. What's your advice on dating within the industry? Sincerely, Stumped Swiper Dear Stumped Swiper, While it can be exciting to get to know a fellow sommelier on that level, the truth is that the right person is someone who's compatible with your views and values emotionally, physically, economically, and spiritually—not just professionally. Dating a fel - low somm will only work if you're willing to embrace the conicts that may follow—and withstand all the workplace gossip that can plague these kinds of relationships. Above all, follow your heart, but be sure this is worth the swipe! If so, think of your best pickup line and take the leap. Good luck! Good Somm Dear Stumped Swiper, Wait a minute . . . are you crazy?! You're actually considering dat - ing another somm?! Well, if you can stomach one more know-it-all, pretentious functioning alcoholic in your life, then I guess go ahead and swipe right! But with all the people available out there, I sug - gest you hold out for someone with a real job, like a doctor. Or a lawyer. Or a waiter. Yours Truly, Bad Somm This column is a parody and does not reflect the views of The SOMM Journal. Follow the columnists at @goodsommbadsomm on social media and visit their page at goodsommbadsomm.com. PHOTO: KASPARS GRINVALDS VIA ADOBE STOCK 64 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

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