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{ SOMMjournal.com } 101 foliage and sampled berries for avor and ripeness. She says the pivotal moment in her appreciation for Chardonnay arose when her cousin Karl Wente asked her father why he loved the variety so much. His answer— "Chardonnay affords the winemaker the largest canvas on which to paint"—pro - foundly inspired her. "It's a concept that rings true today when I am walking through the Wente heritage Chardonnay blocks, looking for the particular avors—from green apple to citrus and stone fruits—that dene our style," she explained. To ensure all four Wente Chardonnay offerings exemplify their individual sense of place while expressing true varietal typicity—and, of course, delivering on taste—deciding which paint to use from the palette is serious business. According to Niki, the process begins with an assess - ment of the grapes' Brix level, with the amount of direct sunlight as well as the canopy cover, aspect, and soil fertility all contributing to the levels in any given plot. Ultimately, this informs when plots should be harvested, she explained. At 21–22 Brix, crisp acidity, mineral - ity, and tart avors of lemon and green apple manifest in ideal form for the Wente Small Lot Eric's Chardonnay, an unoaked, single-vineyard wine reminiscent of Chablis with characteristics of Asian pear, white ower, lemon zest, and wet stone. Brix of 22–23 will result in the riper apple, pear, and melon notes characteristic of the Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay. And for its barrel-fermented Riva Ranch and Nth Degree labels, Wente pushes the Brix to 24–25, producing notes of stone and tropical fruit that will complement the wood treatment. A Wine for Every Taste "To oak or not to oak, that is the ques- tion," Niki said as she segued to the next decision facing Chardonnay winemakers. "At Wente, it's more a question of oxygen versus no oxygen, depending on the style we seek." For example, the fermenta - tion of Eric's Chardonnay is separated evenly, with half in stainless steel and the other half in concrete eggs; this serves to preserve the primary fruit characteristics with just a touch of oxidation from the concrete. "For our barrel-fermented and aged wines, the next question is American or French oak, which have different avor proles," Niki continued. "American oak is more assertive, with avors that are intense when young but fade with bottle aging. French oak offers a more elegant style with avors that bloom with age." Fifty percent of Wente's Morning Fog Livermore Chardonnay is fermented in neutral American oak barrels, while the remaining half ferments in stainless steel to showcase the unfettered fruit. The buttery Riva Ranch and the rich and decadent Nth Degree labels both undergo barrel-fermen - tation (Riva 90%; Nth Degree 100%) and oak-aging, with Riva seeing an equal mix of new and neutral American and French oak. The limited-production, small-lot Nth Degree, by contrast, inherits its nesse and elegant style from 100% French oak. The nal decisions facing the winemak - ing team—those regarding yeast selection (indigenous versus selected strains), sur-lie aging, and malolactic fermentation—also signicantly amplify the avor and style of the nished wine, particularly in terms of mouthfeel. All Wente Chardonnay un - dergoes various levels of sur-lie aging. For just a touch of richness, Small Lot Eric's sees four months with no stirring (bâton - nage) and is the only Wente Chardonnay mostly fermented with indigenous yeast; the barrel-fermented portion of Morning Fog, meanwhile, was aged sur lie for ve months with bâtonnage performed monthly. Riva Ranch inherits its fuller mouthfeel and creamy texture from eight months of barrel-aged sur lie, while weekly bâtonnage over a 14-month period in French oak lends Nth Degree its sultry mouthfeel and layered complexity. Malolactic fermenta - tion, the process that converts sharp, tart malic acid to soft, buttery lactic acid, is per- formed on all Wente Chardonnay wines except for Small Lot Eric's. When asked which style she prefers, Niki readily revealed her answer: "I am a buttery Chardonnay girl—they call me the 'Riva Diva.'" She stressed, however, that wine ap - preciation is a journey, with Wente produc- ing a Chardonnay for every step of the way. "Morning Fog is our gateway wine: the perfect introduction for folks who prefer less oak," Niki said. "From there you can step it up, perhaps all the way to the Nth Degree." With a depth of knowledge passed down through generations and a charisma all her own, Niki certainly knows her way around Chardonnay. Combining 135 years of experience with an unwaver - ing commitment to quality informs every winemaking decision she and her family undertake, and in the process, Wente Vine - yards continues to shape the character of America's favorite grape with distinctive, approachable, and delicious wines for every palate . . . oak or no oak. Attendees sample the selection of Wente Chardonnays. PHOTO: JOHN CURLEY The lineup of Chardonnay-based Wente wines.