Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1037369
116 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 Tucked into the steep volcanic slopes of the southern Zemplén Mountains, the historic Hungarian village of Mád is located in the heart of the country's Tokaj wine region. Here 18th-generation winemaker István Szepsy Jr. fashions world-class dry and sweet Aszú wines from 11 vineyards, which comprise 25 hectares mostly planted to Furmint, the region's signature grape. One of those vineyards, Szent Tamás, is a south-facing Grand Cru slope just east of Mád that was classied as a premier growing area in the early 1700s. According to Eniko " Magyar, who serves as Project Director for Hungar- ian wine promoter Wines of Excellence, the vineyard is so prestigious that the winery there was named after it. "From this terroir, this dry Furmint expresses real com - plexity, minerality, depth, and elegance," Magyar says of the vineyard's red clay, zeolite, rhyolite, and quartzite soils. Produced from 25-year-old vines that underwent "extreme green harvesting" during the growing season to lower yields (3.5 tons/hectare for this single-vineyard Furmint) and concentrate avors before a mid-September harvest, the oak barrel–aged Szent Tamás 2013 Furmint is the high-end expression of dry Furmint. It's luscious and rich, indeed, with a bright, spicy, and botrytis-laced nose brimming with notes of ripe apricots, honeysuckle, and powdered stone. In the wake of a satiny texture, both savory and sweet avors coat the palate with deep, generous layers of dried mango and peach, honey, and vivacious spice- and mineral-tinged zip. Magyar recommended pairing the wine with oysters and spicy foods, as well as poultry- based and vegetarian dishes—or, for adventurous diners, roasted veal liver. Imported by Vinum Tokaj International, LLC, and distributed by Southern Glazer's Wine and Spirits. Eniko " Magyar, Project Director of Wines of Excellence. game of wines WINE #1: SZENT TAMÁS 2013 FURMINT, TOKAJ, HUNGARY ($90) Presented by Eniko " Magyar, Project Director for Vinum Tokaj International's Wines of Excellence Program