Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1037369
{ SOMMjournal.com } 129 IN 1968, SILVERADO Vineyards' Stags Leap Vineyard became the fourth site planted to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Stags Leap District. Over the next two decades, a new Cabernet clone emerged from vines that had adapted to the vine - yard's steep, Perkins Gravelly Loam soils. The University of California, Davis, gave a nod to this distinctive vine and desig- nated it as the "Heritage Disney Silverado Clone." It's one of only three to attain this status and the only one hailing from the Stags Leap District. This prompted Sil- verado to give a special name to the wine produced from these vines: SOLO. At the end of September, Silverado Vineyards re-released the 2007, 2008, and 2009 vintages of its single-vineyard SOLO Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon in a restaurant-only, limited-availability offer - ing. Intrigued by how these vintages com- pared, I tasted them alongside Silverado Vineyards President Russell Weis and Winemaker Jon Emmerich in mid-August. At a retail value of $125 per bottle, this $200 wholesale-priced trio is allocated at 36 packs (the winery stores them in the family cellars, so you know they've been well-kept). "There's the story of location, location, location, but truly, this is the story of weather, weather, weather," Emmerich says. "We're using the same [heritage] clone, but in such diverse vintages, the wines are truly unique." Whether or not you bring in this three- pack to share with your customers in retail settings or on your list, we've provided our own notes on four vintages produced entirely from the vineyard's rocky terraces and gentle slopes between the Silverado Trail and the Napa River. Silverado Vineyards 2007 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley Notes of salted plum and ripe cherry are hallmarks for this vintage. At an ABV of 15%, a gure Wine - maker Jon Emmerich claims he "doesn't strive for," this wine still shows youth and, as expected for the SLD AVA, is support - ed by acid and structure with a denite approachability. The nish is long and the eshy texture keeps it ageworthy. 95 Silverado Vineyards 2008 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley Emmerich points out that the '08 vintage was "less dramatic than the '07—a quick harvest, condensed, with no major events during growing season." With a sensation akin to a delicate feather caressing the palate, it's clear the SLD velvet glove is on hand for this wine. Violets and heathery dried owers affect a dryness on the mid-palate that persists through the nish. Bright and medium- bodied, this is a well-structured, food- friendly wine. Plum and raspberry come into play with balanced acidity. 95 Silverado Vineyards 2009 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley Because this wine came off a drought year and a late harvest in October, Emmerich's concern centered on ripeness. After it shows a nose of choc - olate-cherry and truly balanced tannins, a cola avor enters to outline cedar and cherry notes. Ripe pomegranate continues to pick up the acidity at the nish line. 97 CURRENT RELEASE: Silverado Vineyards 2015 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap Dis- trict, Napa Valley With its wow factor, this is SOLO-ness at its youth, but it's also primed for aging glory. This wine's balance of oak, fruit, tannins, and acidity excels, and its perfume of acacia and roses is what you'd expect to experience while walking into a spa. The aromatics blend into the palate with cinnamon-kissed cherries and pomegranate. Mocha comes in toward the middle and keeps the nish lengthy. 98 REACHING FOR THE TOP While Cuvaison has established itself in the cool and foggy Carneros region, Rogstad gets to switch gears by climbing the heights of Mt. Veeder for estate grown fruit on steep, rocky soils. The winery's Brandlin label features Bordeaux varieties exhibiting abundant intensity and structure. "As a growing region, we farm our fruit on the mountain's cooler side," notes Rogstad. "The Cabernet Sauvignon ripens quite late and we are able to stretch out the grow - ing season." Battered by sun and wind above the fog line, the berries are protected by their thicker skins. "We rack our Cabs quarterly," Rogstad confesses. "That's how we bring these massive tannins into balance." Brandlin 2014 Henry's Keep Proprietary Red Wine, Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley ($110) Meaty and packed with dry tan - nins, plum liqueur, dusted violets, and mocha fudge, this blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec, 4% Cab Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot is rich, fragrant, and powerful. Notes of espresso bean and black tea paint the tannins with an inky wash. 95 Named President and CEO of Cuvaison Estate Wines in 2016, Dan Zepponi is the son of famed vintner Gino Zepponi, who co-founded Napa's ZD Winery. SOLO Goes Trio WATCH FOR THE SILVERADO SOLO THREE-PACK THIS BUYING SEASON