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38 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 { imports and exports } NOW A DECADE PAST, the Australian wine crisis is a case study in how markets can grow at an unsustainable rate—pro - ducing in their wake a glut of mass-market wines. It's a cautionary tale of globalization gone off the rails combined with the per - fect storm of drought, frost, wildres, and the pressure of agging prices in the bulk market that preceded the collapse. Australia's 20-year bubble burst in 2008 following an era of rapid expansion, during which retailers and buyers increas - ingly overlooked Aussie wines in favor of value-priced releases from countries like Chile and France. Australian exports have been down since the crash, and to a lesser degree in Argentina, the surge of inex- pensive Malbecs competing on grocery store shelves has similarly impacted the country's export market. Like a prizeghter catching a second wind, Australia has managed to rally as a new wave of producers enters the market. Their nuanced and sophisticated offerings remain attractively priced, and consum - ers are once again seeking tried-and- true varieties from the country's storied winegrowing regions while simultaneously exploring more avant-garde grapes. This newfound willingness to engage with boutique producers in both Australia and Argentina's premium and ultra-premium categories did not go unnoticed by M Im - ports CEO and founder Mark Macedonio. Since 2005, M Imports has specialized in sourcing world-class wines from Spain and Portugal, and thanks in part to his instinct, marketing savvy, and well-tuned palate, Macedonio compiled an impressive portfo - lio of 55 wines, of which 23 have appeared on Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast's prestigious Top 100 lists. "We found our niche in working with major wholesalers and their ne-wine teams," Macedonio says. "On the on- premise side, we have a following in up - scale wine bars, as well as both casual and ne-dining restaurants. Our customer base is fairly diverse, and every so often buyers would ask why we didn't carry any wines from regions beyond Portugal and Spain." Intrigued by the possibility of broaden - ing M Imports' scope, Macedonio says a trip to Australia in early spring ultimately convinced him to establish the company's new Rare and Allocated division. "In investigating Australia, we tasted some 400 wines during the trip—many from McLaren Vale. The wines from Kangarilla Road impressed me as the most excep - tional wines I sampled from the region," he explains. "Their Devil's Whisker's Shiraz is velvety and elegant with tons of fresh fruit—it's just a beautiful wine." Another blue-chip producer Macedo - nio readily praises is Vinos de Potrero, a winery with an all-star team and a vineyard situated in the Gualtallary: a high-altitude sub-appellation of Argentina's Uco Valley that's increasingly garnering global atten - tion and acclaim. The winery is owned by Nicolás Burdisso and his wife, María Belén; a professional soccer player, Burdisso has played on two Argentinian World Cup teams and won an Olympic gold medal in 2004. "Being an Argentinian, his passion is naturally wine," Macedonio says. "The real strength of their brand is in their Malbecs, but they see an opportunity to market other varietals. They make a delicious Char - donnay and a red blend named El Debut De Potrero, as well. We're truly fortunate to bring them into the U.S., where they are already present in 20 states." Brave New World M IMPORTS VENTURES BEYOND SPAIN AND PORTUGAL FOR ITS NEW RARE AND ALLOCATED DIVISION by Christine Havens PHOTO COURTESY OF M IMPORTS Vinos de Potrero's vineyards are located in the Gualtallary sub-appellation of Argentina's Uco Valley. Charlie O'Brien is the Winemaker for Australia's Kangarilla Road. PHOTO COURTESY OF KANGARILLA ROAD WINERY