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58 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 RISING FROM THE dark-green scrub of southwestern Sardinia is a startlingly white modernist structure—statement architec- ture that both contrasts with and focuses attention on the surrounding vineyards and hillsides. This is Cantina Mesa, a thoroughly contemporary winery that nevertheless draws on the island's most traditional grape varieties. Its bold presence in the landscape is symbolic of the striking new stance of its homeland's wines on the world stage. Founded by Italian advertising executive Gavino Sanna as a tribute to his native Sar - dinia (what he calls his "ultimate advertising campaign") and acquired by the adven- turesome Santa Margherita Wine Group in mid-2017, Cantina Mesa is now poised to bring Sardinia's winegrowing heritage to new and broader markets, including the U.S., where it's handled by import arm Santa Margherita USA. The company intentionally seeks out wineries in unheralded and deeply tradi - tional Italian viticultural regions. Gaetano Marzotto, President of Santa Margherita, calls Cantina Mesa "a jewel of the Medi - terranean," noting its "strong narrative potential." Wines for the Table The fact that "mesa" means table in the Sardinian dialect appropriately sums up the essence of these wines, which are meant to be shared with food among friends. The lineup from this medium- sized producer (around 65,000 cases per year) is intentionally restricted to just ve wines representing three of Sardinia's heritage grape varieties—Vermentino, Carignano, and Cannonau (the local name for Grenache)—each of which has its own dedicated DOC. For on-premise buyers, the Cantina Mesa por tfolio provides approachable, food-friendly releases from a heritage-rich Italian region that guests may be curi - ous to discover. The wines are eminently suited to by-the-glass programs, but are also offered at a price point that will ensure quick turnover as by-the-bottle offerings. In the off-premise space, they're packed with value for retail consumers and feature handsome, modern labels with instant shelf appeal. According to Vincent Chiaramonte, CEO of Santa Margherita USA, Cantina Mesa's wines are ideal for contemporary wine drinkers. "Today in the United States we are seeing younger generations of wine drinkers experimenting with the many dif - ferent options available," he says. "Cantina Mesa has the ability to be a crowd-pleaser due to the vineyard locations, mild Sardin- ian climate, and unique soils." Chiaramonte also notes the draw of Cantina Mesa's di- verse offerings, adding that they "now have the opportunity to develop Vermentino and traditional red wines such as Carigna- no and Cannonau." "Consumers today are branching out from traditional offerings, and Cantina Mesa will provide our custom- ers with ample opportunities to enjoy and experience Sardinian wines," he adds. SANTA MARGHERITA WINE GROUP BRINGS SARDINIA'S VINOUS HERITAGE TO THE FOREFRONT WITH CANTINA MESA Lorella Degan and her husband, Chef Massimiliano Conti, own Sardinian restaurant La Ciccia in San Francisco. Sardinian Statement by David Gadd / photos by Hardy Wilson PHOTO COURTESY OF SANTA MARGHERITA USA Cantina Mesa's entry-level offerings, Primo Bianco and Primo Scuro, provide a wonderful introduction to Sardinian wine and are ideal by the glass. { italy }