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PICTURE 28 ACRES OF CABERNET SAUVIGNON vines on previously neglected land, then imagine them as a hallmark site of what's primed to become one of the region's most sought-after labels. While it seems improbable, Guarachi Family Wines' Meadowrock Vineyard is a project already four years in the making as the brand celebrates its tenth anniversary. The property's vines, however, have an average age of more than 18 years: Now groomed under watchful eyes, it seems they're destined for greatness. Meadowrock Vineyard, which also contains a block of Malbec, is owned by winemaker and brand-building entrepreneur Alex Guarachi, founder of Guarachi Family Wines and importing com - pany Guarachi Wine Partners. Guarachi has thoughtfully acquired some of Northern California's most desirable real estate for grapes, including the Sun Chase Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast and now—located 1,450 feet above sea level on the rugged and sparsely planted Atlas Peak—Meadowrock Winery and its namesake vineyard. Although the Atlas Peak AVA, Napa Valley's highest and most rugged mountain region, covers 11,400 acres, only 1,500 are dedicated to winegrowing. I recently met with winemaker Julian Gonzalez for a primer on Meadowrock as we walked the vineyard's meticulous rows. A former soccer player, Gonzalez became acquainted with Guarachi during his time spent serving as a consultant for the ubiquitous Paul Hobbs from 2007–2016, and the pair bonded over their shared love of soccer and passion for creating high-quality wine. Born in El Llano, Mexico, and raised in Napa, the 44-year- old Gonzalez—who managed up to 12 clients at a time with Hobbs—now calls Meadowrock his second home. He spends a minimum of eight hours a day at this isolated vineyard site, a 15-minute drive up the winding mountain road off Silverado Trail in the northeast section of the valley. Although this acreage demands abundant time and energy, Gonzalez also serves alongside Guarachi as the winemaker for the various Guarachi Family Wines labels (read on for tasting notes). With access to a high-end, boutique production facility that leaves some room to grow (it's currently lled with barrel samples of the debut 2016 vintage, set for release next June), Gonzalez has little company besides an assistant, a new nurs - ery of just-planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines, and the glorious mountainside vineyard, which he tends with help from Atlas Vineyard Management. The property, which produced stellar fruit during the 2016 harvest, continues to thrive. Three on-site wells ensure a continu - ous water supply for the well-draining, volcanic-red, and incredibly rocky soils. As we grape-gaze on a steep hill, it's clear that the clusters are cleanly separated. "No clusters touch each other," Gonzalez explains. "I insist on this: no clumping and no bunching." A self-professed perfectionist, he explains that he and Guarachi share this same philosophy: "Only the best," he says. The grapes enjoy cold nights, with temperatures at least 10 de - grees cooler than those on the valley oor in the winter months. With its east-facing orientation, Meadowrock doesn't get a lot of afternoon sun, but the rocks heat up so much during the day that they radiate at night. "We experience a long growing season, and those cold nights allow more acid and color in the wine," Gonza - lez says. "This is actually the warmest spot on Atlas Peak." Meadowrock's proximity to famous neighbors can result in vinous celebrity sightings: Just above the property is Piero Anti - nori's Antica Winery, while another side of the site faces the widely lauded Stagecoach Vineyard. Meadowrock seems all but guaranteed to soon earn its own inimitable status here, with wines painstakingly raised in a prestigious place that's ready for its close up. first press first press 6 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 by Meridith May / photos by Alexander Rubin "No clusters touch each other," Gonzalez says of the Meadowrock vineyard. "I insist on this: no clumping and no bunching."