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94 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018 proximity to the Palisades tells the secret, in my humble opinion," Vianna said. Referencing a detailed handout that in- cluded maps, growing degree days, rainfall days, fog patterns, soil series, and bedrock depth, Vianna made a compelling case for the "textural hedonism"—as once de- scribed by wine expert and author Karen MacNeil—in SLD Cabernet Sauvignon. "The Palisades [and] that trapping of heat effect . . . give us the ability to have these tannins that are just silky, eshy, velvety, and perfect," she explained. "You'll see differ - ences in style as you go across SLD, but we all have different proximities to the Palisades that will change what the nature of our fruit is." Grace, one of the most respected viticulturalists in the district, elaborated on Vianna's concept of the "there-there" as the reection of the sun caught his silver belt buckle adorned with grapes. "A heaping teaspoon of soil can have up to 4 billion bacteria, 1 million fungi, and about 300,000 algae, and they all combine to create an organic matter in our soils," Grace explained. "One of the unique things about SLD which I've never seen anywhere else is that all of the soils have about 3.5 percent organic matter. Based on soil samples from all over SLD, the one thing they all had in common is that they're not too rich, yet not too nutrient- decient. It's a Goldilocks zone." All About the Base After lunch, the somms toured the vineyards of one of the longest-reigning (and loveliest) families in the SLD at Regusci Winery. Like his grandfather, who purchased the land in 1932, Jim Regusci is a farmer rst and foremost, so naturally the segment of the day, titled "A Farming Primer—Hands-On in the Vineyards," included inspecting a few soil pits and partaking in a bumpy gondola ride. Kelly Maher, Regusci's soil expert, chopped away at the interior wall of the pit while waxing poetic to the somms about getting the right root-stalk species planted in the appropriate soils. "Everyone always goes to the wine - makers rst, and then vineyard manag- ers, but it truly is the 'soil guys' you have to start with," Regusci said. "If the soils aren't right—if Kelly doesn't do what he does so well—what ends up happening is that you don't know you're getting things wrong until ten years down the line. The soils are the most important part of what we do: It's literally the base." Clone Wars Toting gift bags full of Regusci farm- grown goodies like spiced walnuts, beef jerky, and fresh strawberries, the somms next headed to Silverado Vineyards for an exploration of the SLD's Caber - net Sauvignon clones. Silverado Vineyards President Russ Weis; Dick Steltzner of Steltzner Vineyards; Doug Fletcher, Vice President of Winemaking for Terlato Family Vineyards; and Ernie Ilsley of Ilsley Vine - yards made up the accomplished panel. "What happens to clones when they adapt specically to their site, and why?" Weis asked as the seminar began. To help answer his question, the somms tasted through eight clones shared from the winemakers' respective vineyards: FPS 15, FPS 4, Martini, UCD 30, See Selection, CR 09, La Questa, and UCD 30. Venturing beyond the samples on hand, the discussion also centered around other popular clones used in California, with the Eisele eld selection clone being the most well-known in the SLD. Hindering this ex - ploration, however, were SOMM Campers tour Regusci Winery under the shade of the property's gondola.