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Carmel Valley's Last Orchard The Panetta Family Tur ns Walnuts into Wine B Y M I C H A E L C H AT F I E L D S everal industries have flourished and failed flourished and failed flourished and failed in the Monterey Pen- in the Monterey Pen- insula area over the centuries. insula area over the centuries. Perhaps the most well-docu- Perhaps the most well-docu- mented was Monterey's massive mented was Monterey's massive sardine operations that pulled sardine operations that pulled Brobdingnagian quantities of sil- Brobdingnagian quantities of sil- very pilchards out of the Monterey very pilchards out of the Monterey Bay before going completely Bay before going completely belly-up just after World War II. belly-up just after World War II. belly-up just after World War II. Less familiar is the fact that Less familiar is the fact that Carmel Valley was once carpet- Carmel Valley was once carpet- ed in lush fruit and nut orchards. ed in lush fruit and nut orchards. In fact, in the early 20th century, In fact, in the early 20th century, pears from the region were pears from the region were regarded as some of the finest regarded as some of the finest regarded as some of the finest anywhere and a bustling business anywhere and a bustling business anywhere and a bustling business in their production thrived until in their production thrived until the market went bust in the early the market went bust in the early 1940s. The market forces that 1940s. The market forces that drove the decline are a mystery. drove the decline are a mystery. But not all those trees were But not all those trees were turned into firewood. One stand turned into firewood. One stand turned into firewood. One stand of walnut trees—grafted onto of walnut trees—grafted onto of walnut trees—grafted onto English walnut rootstock for hardiness—survived and thrived for more English walnut rootstock for hardiness—survived and thrived for more than 70 years before succumbing to the bulldozer. That orchard was a than 70 years before succumbing to the bulldozer. That orchard was a landmark on Carmel Valley Road. It was the centerpiece of the property landmark on Carmel Valley Road. It was the centerpiece of the property Carmelo and Carmelina Panetta purchased after selling the restaurant Carmelo and Carmelina Panetta purchased after selling the restaurant Carmelo and Carmelina Panetta purchased after selling the restaurant they owned on Alvarado Street in Monterey. they owned on Alvarado Street in Monterey. "My father planted those trees 72 years ago," says the couple's son, for- "My father planted those trees 72 years ago," says the couple's son, for- mer US Representative, White House Chief of Staff, CIA Director and mer US Representative, White House Chief of Staff, CIA Director and Secretary of Defense Leon Panetta. "I grew up with them, and worked Secretary of Defense Leon Panetta. "I grew up with them, and worked alongside my father, weeding, till- alongside my father, weeding, till- ing and running the tractor. In ing and running the tractor. In fact, I ran the tractor until this fact, I ran the tractor until this past spring." past spring." There were about 100 trees. "I There were about 100 trees. "I used to count them as a kid," used to count them as a kid," Panetta says. Sadly, in July 2018 Panetta says. Sadly, in July 2018 most of those hoary trees were most of those hoary trees were uprooted, victims to age, drought uprooted, victims to age, drought and insect infestation. and insect infestation. "Over half had died and most "Over half had died and most of the rest were dying," he adds. of the rest were dying," he adds. "We had to make the difficult "We had to make the difficult "We had to make the difficult decision to remove them. decision to remove them. Overall it was a traumatic expe- Overall it was a traumatic expe- rience for my wife Sylvia and me. rience for my wife Sylvia and me. But there are about a dozen left." But there are about a dozen left." But there are about a dozen left." Born in 1938, Panetta remem- Born in 1938, Panetta remem- bers a very different Carmel bers a very different Carmel Valley than the one we know Valley than the one we know today. "It was almost all agricultur- today. "It was almost all agricultur- al," he says. "There were arti- al," he says. "There were arti- choke fields, pear, apple and apri- choke fields, pear, apple and apri- choke fields, pear, apple and apri- cot trees and another walnut cot trees and another walnut orchard near Robles Del Rio. In orchard near Robles Del Rio. In addition, there were cattle ranches and hay fields." Until just recently, the addition, there were cattle ranches and hay fields." Until just recently, the addition, there were cattle ranches and hay fields." Until just recently, the Panettas harvested the walnuts and sold them to a company in Hollister. Panettas harvested the walnuts and sold them to a company in Hollister. The Carmel Valley agricultural industry has deep roots, reaching back to The Carmel Valley agricultural industry has deep roots, reaching back to the days of the Spanish missionaries. The sublime weather and steady supply the days of the Spanish missionaries. The sublime weather and steady supply of water thanks to the freely flowing Carmel River meant that just about of water thanks to the freely flowing Carmel River meant that just about of water thanks to the freely flowing Carmel River meant that just about anything planted in the soil would flourish. In a June 2014 article for The anything planted in the soil would flourish. In a June 2014 article for The anything planted in the soil would flourish. In a June 2014 article for The anything planted in the soil would flourish. In a June 2014 article for The Carmel Valley Historian, Elizabeth Barratt noted that Padre Lausen of San Carmel Valley Historian, Elizabeth Barratt noted that Padre Lausen of San Carmel Valley Historian, Elizabeth Barratt noted that Padre Lausen of San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission first introduced pears to the region Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission first introduced pears to the region Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission first introduced pears to the region As a lad, Leon Panetta worked with his father Carmelo in the walnut orchard he planted. walnut orchard he planted. 122 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • H O L I D A Y 2 0 1 8 22 122 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • H O L I D A Y 2 0 1 8 Photo: Courtesy of the Panetta family Photo: Courtesy of the Panetta family