Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1047605
144 C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • H O L I D A Y 2 0 1 8 S ometimes we face life's crossroads during a long, arduous jour- ney. Michelle Estigoy faced hers sitting on her couch. "I was in a stagnant place in life," says the executive chef at Carmel's "I was in a stagnant place in life," says the executive chef at Carmel's Cultura comida y bebida about her days working as a preschool teacher's Cultura comida y bebida about her days working as a preschool teacher's aide in Sanger in the Central Valley. "I was watching TV, and a commercial aide in Sanger in the Central Valley. "I was watching TV, and a commercial came on asking if I was sitting on the couch." came on asking if I was sitting on the couch." She answered aloud: "Why, yes I am!" She answered aloud: "Why, yes I am!" "Do you like to cook?" "Do you like to cook?" "Yes I do!" "Yes I do!" Part of a recruitment effort by the Institute of Technology's culinary Part of a recruitment effort by the Institute of Technology's culinary division, the commercial inspired Estigoy to start her culinary career. division, the commercial inspired Estigoy to start her culinary career. It wasn't a giant leap. Estigoy's mom had recognized a young daughter's It wasn't a giant leap. Estigoy's mom had recognized a young daughter's talent, buying baking tools and all the flour and butter she needed. talent, buying baking tools and all the flour and butter she needed. talent, buying baking tools and all the flour and butter she needed. "I just rolled my eyes," Estigoy says. "You know, terrible teens." "I just rolled my eyes," Estigoy says. "You know, terrible teens." Her childhood centered around food (her roots trace to Mexico and Her childhood centered around food (her roots trace to Mexico and the Philippines). She loved helping her abuela Rosa transform fresh ingre- the Philippines). She loved helping her abuela Rosa transform fresh ingre- dients into delicious Mexican food, and remembers the smell of garlic and dients into delicious Mexican food, and remembers the smell of garlic and cumin ground in the molcajete (a traditional mortar and pestle made cumin ground in the molcajete (a traditional mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock). from volcanic rock). Estigoy eventually found her way into the kitchen at Casanova in Estigoy eventually found her way into the kitchen at Casanova in Carmel. She then moved to acclaimed Big Sur restaurant Sierra Mar, Carmel. She then moved to acclaimed Big Sur restaurant Sierra Mar, working under her mentor, Chef John Cox. working under her mentor, Chef John Cox. When Cox partnered with Sarah Kabat Marcy to open Cultura, they When Cox partnered with Sarah Kabat Marcy to open Cultura, they asked Estigoy to lead the kitchen. It's here she happily channels childhood asked Estigoy to lead the kitchen. It's here she happily channels childhood memories, blended with new ideas unearthed during frequent trips to memories, blended with new ideas unearthed during frequent trips to Oaxaca with her partner Miguel. Oaxaca with her partner Miguel. Still off the couch, and loving it. Still off the couch, and loving it. Q: At Cultura, how do you balance respect for local food and culture with your own culinary traditions? with your own culinary traditions? A: I kind of meditate on it. I look at the produce—I get to play with, hold it, smell it, taste it. I ask questions like what would my grandmother hold it, smell it, taste it. I ask questions like what would my grandmother do with it, or look back at how it is traditionally used. Sometimes it starts do with it, or look back at how it is traditionally used. Sometimes it starts with a drawing or a memory of the time I met Miguel's family in Oaxaca. with a drawing or a memory of the time I met Miguel's family in Oaxaca. Q: What has been your experience as a woman in what's still a male- dominated world? dominated world? A: When I first started working, I felt I had to work twice as hard to When I first started working, I felt I had to work twice as hard to prove that I was half as good as the others. There was a lot of self-doubt. prove that I was half as good as the others. There was a lot of self-doubt. I wasn't as fast as the other guys who had 10-plus years under their belt, I wasn't as fast as the other guys who had 10-plus years under their belt, but I learned everything I could from each of my co-workers and contin- but I learned everything I could from each of my co-workers and contin- but I learned everything I could from each of my co-workers and contin- ued to push myself to prove I belonged. I felt in that I gained some of their ued to push myself to prove I belonged. I felt in that I gained some of their respect. respect. Q: What do you cook at home? A: The few times I do cook it's plant-based. I like to take things like pozole or pho and make it vegan. Sometimes I'm surprised at how well it pozole or pho and make it vegan. Sometimes I'm surprised at how well it comes out. comes out. Q: If you were facing your last meal what would it be? A: My mother's chile Colorado, my best friend's sopita, my grandmoth- er's menudo, or my cousin's husband's mother's pancit. er's menudo, or my cousin's husband's mother's pancit. Q: What's your dining guilty pleasure? A: I eat plant-based for health reasons, but when there is Wagyu (beef) I eat plant-based for health reasons, but when there is Wagyu (beef) on the menu, all that flies out the window. Oh, and any dessert. on the menu, all that flies out the window. Oh, and any dessert. on the menu, all that flies out the window. Oh, and any dessert. Q: What do you do on your days off? What do you do on your days off? A: I am very grateful for my partner Miguel, who also works in the industry. We share one day off, so the day I am on my own, I usually do industry. We share one day off, so the day I am on my own, I usually do absolutely nothing or I'll meet friends for coffee. The day we have together, absolutely nothing or I'll meet friends for coffee. The day we have together, we'll go for breakfast, then hang out at the beach or go shopping. When we'll go for breakfast, then hang out at the beach or go shopping. When A Meritage of Mexican Flavors Chef Michelle Estigoy Innovates at Cultur a B Y L A R R Y H A R L A N D B Y L A R R Y H A R L A N D