CleverRoot

THE NAMES OF TWO über-hip new hot spots on West Hollywood's Sunset Strip—the Cal- French restaurant Tesse (pronounced "Tess") and its adjoining wine emporium, Boutellier— aren't exactly modern-day lexicons commonly used amongst their clientele, who range from funky to fashionable. These unconventional monikers have, how- ever, become buzzwords for those in the know since Tesse's opening earlier this year and Boutellier's debut a few months later. Both are the latest successes of restaurateur Bill Chait, a major player in the Los Angeles restaurant scene for more than 30 years who's helped oversee acclaimed venues like Bestia, Repub- lique, and Barrel & Ashes. For context, Tesse is short for delicates—a contraction of delicatesse, the French word for "delicacy." It's also used throughout France as a colloquial term for charcuterie, one of the many offerings on the eclectic menu at the res- taurant. "Our partners wanted a one-syllable name, Bill wanted a feminine-sounding name, and I wanted it to tell a story involving chefs," partner/owner Jordan Ogron explains. Whether or not the restaurant's customers explicitly make that connection, they enter this spacious and dimly lit establishment expect- ing a good time in a lively atmosphere with a conversational noise level rivaling the deci- bels found at a rock concert. Yet it's the food, served and described in knowledgeable detail by Tesse's waiters, that makes this restaurant a frequent flier among the jet set. Tesse's kitchen is helmed by Execu- tive Chef/partner Raphael Francois, whose previous experience includes stints at Michelin-starred restaurants like the Four Sea- sons George V in Paris, The Connaught Hotel in London, and the now-closed Le Cirque in New York (for more on Francois, see page 14). Menu standouts at Tesse include the delicately bread- ed vegetable "beignets" ladled tableside with a rich red pepper and tomato gazpacho, as well as a golden tower of plump, beer-battered onion rings served with a housemade tartar sauce that firmly supplants any desire for ketchup. Tesse has also gained fame for its house- made, aged, and smoked pork and duck sausages, which join cured meats and cheese appetizers on the "Les Plates" portion of the menu. The Maine lobster sausages, meanwhile, are served on a nest of thick duck fat fries and a beurre blanc sauce that reins in the richness of the dish. The restaurant's most popular item, how- ever, is unquestionably the bucatini with bone marrow, which comes with duck prosciutto, shallots, parsley, and balsamic vinegar. For a $5 upcharge, a napkin is tied around the guest's neck once the marrow is consumed from the hollowed-out bone, and a waiter—or Ogron himself, yelling "bone luge!"—approaches to pour 5 Year Old Sercial Madeira from Cossart Gordon down the bone's canal and into the patron's mouth. This oft-photographed event is announced by the tapping of a knife against the side of the Madeira bottle, quickly drown- ing out competing noise. Other favorites of Ogron's are the beef tar- tare "a l'huile d'olive" served with shallot-mar- inated meat on a slice of lavash covered with grated Grana Padano cheese, as well as the Jidori half chicken, which is presented in a glass cocotte with Chanterelle mushrooms and Ratte potatoes. And one simply can't leave Tesse without trying one of Execu- tive Pastry Chef/partner Sally Camacho Mueller's imaginative desserts, among them the Chocramel, a mélange of milk chocolate, honey caramel, and peanuts best described as a deconstructed Snickers bar. It's Tesse's wine list, however, that's instilled the most pride in Ogron. More than 150 bottles are on the menu with hundreds more in re- serve; the 3-ounce pours, meanwhile, are mod- erate in both portion and pricing. "I wanted to create a wine program that reflected the way people dine in L.A.," says Ogron. "The standard pour is 6 ounces, and we are the only restau- rant I know that only pours 3 ounces. The L.A. dining scene is driven by shared plates: Every- body gets a taste of something, so why not do that with wine so customers can order three or four different wines they might not otherwise have the opportunity to try?" That brings us to Tesse's adjoining wine boutique, Boutellier, where customers can partake in a glass of Champagne as they peruse wooden racks arranged by variety rather than region. An homage to the official title of French royalty's cellar master—the only person with the keys to the most esteemed wines in the country—Boutellier prides itself on offering both rare wines and selections from familiar producers. "I have access to over 1.5 million bottles because I have 95 vendors, but I also work with major collectors," Ogron notes. Whether he's helping diners pick the perfect wines at Tesse or guiding customers through the vast reserves of Boutellier, Ogron is the consummate host for what is arguably the most talked-about gastronomic party in Los Angeles. "Whether it's a $15 bottle or a $5,000 bottle, customers get the same service," he says. "I want every guest to feel special." f a l l 2 0 1 8 | 3 7 The beef tartare "a l'huile d'olive" is served with shallot-marinated meat on a slice of lavash covered with grated Grana Padano cheese. PHOTO: TODD WESTPHAL PHOTO: TODD WESTPHAL TESSE AND BOUTELLIER MELD FINE DINING WITH WINE RETAIL IN WEST HOLLYWOOD by Richard Carleton Hacker tive Chef/partner Raphael Francois, whose Michelin-starred restaurants like the Four Sea- sons George V in Paris, The Connaught Hotel in PHOTO: TODD WESTPHAL The bucatini with bone marrow is one of Tesse's most popular dishes: For a $5 upcharge, diners can get 5 Year Old Sercial Madeira from Cossart Gordon poured directly into their mouths through the bone. ■cr

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