CleverRoot

5 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t lthough Malbec already had its own identity in France as one of the grapes used in red Bordeaux as well as the dominant grape variety of Cahors, it was the fateful arrival of April 17, 1853, that formally sparked the reincarnation of Malbec in Argentina. On this date, which is now celebrated as World Malbec Day, a French agronomist named Michel Pouget brought Malbec vines to South America. The Argentinian government under- estimated what a national gem they had in the variety, encouraging the disposal of old-vine Malbec in the 1980s to make way for the mass production of bulk wines. Fortunately, economic and political shifts in the country during the late '90s allowed for reinvestment in Malbec, paving the way for a boost in international exports as the world started acknowledging the distinctive expres- sion the grape took on in its newfound home. More focus has been put today on quality, site specificity, and sustainability to further define the sense of place Argentina imbues in Malbec. Founded in 1883 and now the largest ex- porter of premium wine brands in Argentina, Trapiche produces wines readily available at res- taurants and retail stores. As the wine-drinking demographic continues to diversify and widen, modern consumers are increasingly eager to try unfamiliar products, especially those that are sustainably made. Despite being one of Argen- tina's long-standing wineries, Trapiche aims to remain current on innovative winemaking and Biodynamic farming practices to create a selec- tion of wines that are modern, streamlined, and sourced from 2,470 acres of natural vineyards. This approach enables the winery to offer styles of Malbec varying in vine age, altitudes, oak types, and aging processes that in turn accom- modate a wide assortment of palates and food. Priced accessibly, Trapiche's Malbecs have drawn well-deserved attention from wine critics, who have heaped critical acclaim on these premium labels over the better part of the past decade. From vines found 750 to 1,100 meters above sea level along the Mendoza River in the province of Mendoza, the Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec is the roundest, smoothest expression in Trapiche's portfolio. It's destemmed and aged nine months in old oak, while the Trapi- che Broquel Malbec—from 25-year-old vines at 900 to 1,200 meters above sea level in Uco Valley estate vineyards—is hand-harvested, de- stemmed, and aged 15 months in 20% new oak. The wine features rich, fresh notes of fruit and sweet spices with supple tannins on the finish. Created to celebrate Trapiche's 100th an- niversary, the Trapiche Medalla Malbec hails from vines planted 1,067 to 1,219 meters above sea level in estate vineyards in the Maipu and Uco Valley regions. Manually harvested and aged in new French oak for 18 months, the wine shows dense, dark fruit, spicy oak, and a velvety, full finish. An Inviting Complexity When Sam Kimbrough took over six months ago as Bar Manager at Hazelwood Food + Drink in Bloomington, Minnesota, the Trapiche Medalla Malbec was already part of the wine list. "Business travelers would come in and ask specifically for Malbec, and I didn't really know anything about it. I knew there were wines from Mendoza, but I never had a chance to taste anything of quality," Kimbrough says, adding that customers' inquiries prompted him to start studying Argentinian wines more closely. Sam Kimbrough, Bar Manager at Hazelwood Food + Drink in Bloomington, MN, recommends the restaurant's slow- roasted lamb shank with cheesy polenta as a Trapiche pairing partner. "The creamy texture of the lamb with the spiciness of the wine is my favorite," he says. PHOTO: PATRICK NAU

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