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f a l l 2 0 1 8 | 2 5 Depth of Character: Pecorino Romano PDO When describing Pecorino Romano PDO, many cheese connoisseurs will likely mention its pronounced saltiness, but this variety has much more to offer. One of the oldest known cheeses, it dates back to Ro- man times, when it was used to feed soldiers. Modern producers still make the cheese in a manner that adheres to the customs of that period. Pecorino Romano's PDO require- ments state that it can only be produced on the island of Sardinia, in the Lazio region, or in Grosseto, a Tuscan province. Its layered flavors offer great depth and food-pairing potential, especially when the cheese is aged for longer periods of time. To balance Pecorino Romano's salinity, Ourieff suggests pairing it with sweet ingredients like dates or honey and late-harvest red wines such as a single-varietal Barbaresco from Fontanafredda. "[These wines can] express a very elegant version of Nebbiolo—plums, bilberries, and violets merge harmoniously with hints of licorice, cinnamon, and tobacco on the nose and pleasurable tannins on the palate," Ourieff says. "[Their] in- credible, mild, long persistence make [them] great wines for mature cheese." Shining Bright: Pecorino Sardo PDO With a brighter taste profile, Pecorino Sardo DOP has been in production since at least the 18th century (its origins likely stem from cheeses such as Rosso Fino and Affumicato). The category comprises two dis- tinct types with their own nuanced flavors: dolce, a younger, more mild cheese aged for 20 to 60 days that carries a green stamp on its rind; and maturo, an older, more pow- erful cheese aged for at least two months that has a darker rind and a blue stamp. Due to its savory notes, this cheese typically complements sweeter foods and orange wines. Be Bold: Fiore Sardo PDO A cheese with origins likely dating back to the Bronze Age, Fiore Sardo PDO (fiore means flower in Italian) hails from the Sardinian provinces of Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano, and Sas- sari. A more assertive cheese, it has a salty flavor that's not quite as strong as Pecorino Romano PDO's. Its sharp characteristics, however, are bal- anced by a creamy mouthfeel. Fiore Sardo PDO ages for at least six months, with its flavors deepening throughout the process. (Producers can also choose to smoke it in order to intensify its flavor profile.) This powerful cheese makes a great addi- tion to pasta, bread, or polenta and pairs nicely with spicy red wines. For a regional pairing, Ourieff suggests blends with Cannonau, Malvasia Nera, Carignano, and Bovale Sardo grapes, which he says serve as "a great representation of Sardinian wines [with] powerful tannins and tightly wound fruit." Program funded by the Autonomous Region of Sardinia with L.R. n.5/2015 art. 15 "Even just between Pecorino Romano PDO, Pecorino Sardo PDO, and Pecorino Fiore Sardo PDO, there's a huge range in flavor and in potential applications." ■cr The European Union utilizes DOP labels (short for Denominazione di Origine Protetta) to signify the specific locale each product comes from. The small Italian island of Sardinia is home to three Pecorino varieties bestowed with PDOs by the E.U. in 1996: Pecorino Romano, Pecorino Sardo, and Fiore Sardo.

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