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f a l l 2 0 1 8 | 3 5 often more fruit-forward, aged versions tend to show more savory, earthy characteristics. Despite its complexity, Sangiovese maintains a reputation as a friendly and accessible variety. "Sangiovese, with its solid core of intense red fruits, has great crossover appeal for those who love rich, generously fruited red wines," Sazama notes, adding that the grape also offers gustatory intrigue for those seeking to explore a spectrum of wine regions. "Sangiovese is very sensitive, so it's really interesting to taste dif- ferent wines from different terroirs." The Balancing Effect Even within Tuscany, mesoclimates and soils can vary greatly. In the hills of the famed Chianti Classico region, vineyards are located at higher elevations with cooler temperatures. Tart fruit and bright acidity tend to dominate these wines—among them the Lamole di La- mole Chianti Classico, another member of the Santa Margherita USA portfolio. Upon traveling closer to the sea in southern Tuscany's Maremma Toscana region, however, a warmer, sunnier Mediterranean climate takes over. This creates a bolder, red-fruited flavor profile while simultaneously softening Sangio- vese's characteristic tannins, as tasted in the Sassoregale Sangiovese Maremma Toscana. While Sangiovese can stand on its own while pleasing a broad range of palates, it's primed for food at its core. Traditionally built for regional pairings like tomato-based dishes and rich Tuscan meats—think bistecca fiorentina and wild boar—Sangiovese is exceptionally versatile. According to Sazama, marrying the variety with food provides a smoother introduction for New World wine drinkers who may not be accus- tomed to the "naturally bright acidity" and bold tannins of an Old World wine like Sangiovese. "Sangiovese not only balances artfully against the acidity of tomato-based sauces, but also cuts through hearty fall and winter dishes," Sazama notes. "Pairing Sangiovese with rich foods will certainly help soften the perception of these elements on the palate." Smooth Yet Structured Since first tasting the Sassoregale Sangio- vese about a year ago, Wesley Hall, Assistant General Manager at The Palm in New York's Midtown East neighborhood, has made the wine a staple at this outpost of The Palm restaurant group (launched nearly a century ago, it operates locations across the country). "It's one of the wines I have trouble keeping in stock," he notes of the Sassoregale, currently listed at $54 per bottle. "It's a phenomenal wine for the price." Due to The Palm's reputation as a clas- sic steakhouse serving up surf and turf and Italian dishes like chicken parmigiana, many guests steer toward Old World wines. As the only single-varietal Sangiovese wine on The Palm's list, the Sassoregale Sangiovese offers an amiable flavor profile for those looking to stray from their comfort zones. "Sangiovese is a great wine to give to people wanting to try something new," Hall says. "The Sassoregale is a bold and elegant wine, but it's not as rich as a California Cab. It's smooth but structured at the same time." Velvety cherry notes and hints of cocoa from time spent aging in oak certainly lend the impression of concentration on the nose, but the Sassoregale Sangiovese proves mouth- watering on the palate, as well. According to Hall, the wine is suited for "pretty much all of" the guests who step into The Palm and lacks sticker shock, hence its popularity. A Pairing Chameleon As the fall season progresses in New York, The Palm's Executive Chef, Stalin Abreu, aims to complement the restaurant's standard dishes with seasonal selections. The spotlight thus shines on two entrées, each of which pairs phenomenally with the Sassoregale Sangiovese despite the dishes' disparities. The first selection, a 16-ounce bone-in putter steak seasoned sparingly with salt and pepper, is served alongside creamy polenta, sage brown butter, and a pomegranate gastrique—all of which help it align seamlessly with the Sas- soregale. "You get some cherries and berries in the wine to match the pomegranate sauce, and the tannins—the elegance—stand up to the put- ter steak," Hall notes. Because the wine walks the fine line between richness and refreshment, it lifts heavy dishes of meat and cream while matching the high-toned flavors of fall produce. Abreu's second seasonal entrée—Chilean sea bass in a brodetto topped with langoustine and accompanied by clams, mussels, and a tomato- saffron broth—may create the more daring pairing with the Sassoregale Sangiovese, as un- likely partners often make the most memorable impressions. "It's the tomato-saffron broth that brings it all together," Hall says, adding that he counts on the savory elements of Sangiovese to harmonize with the dish. Hall urges those who might balk at pairing red wine with seafood to leave their assump- tions at the door: While it's rare that a wine can be equally appropriate for steak as it is for fresh fish, Sangiovese is a chameleon equipped to elevate either option. "Sangiovese's medium body helps, as it will not get lost against these richer dishes nor overpower more delicate cuisine," Sazama notes. As cooler temperatures set in and seasonal fla- vors are coaxed out through slow, soulful cooking techniques, a bottle of Sangiovese can be relied upon to help these satiating dishes express their full potential. Many will fall head over heels with this Tuscan variety immediately, but none should grow sick of it by autumn's end. "Sangiovese not only balances artfully against the acidity of tomato-based sauces, but also cuts through hearty fall and winter dishes," Sazama notes. "Pairing Sangiovese with rich ■cr "Sangiovese, with its solid core of intense red fruits, has great crossover appeal for those who love rich, generously fruited red wines." —Kristina Sazama, Wine Educator for Santa Margherita USA

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