CleverRoot

4 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t THE DEBATE SURROUNDING the "official" ranking of top culinary cities rarely grows old amongst foodies: Classicists say Paris; New York is always a top contender; and Tokyo boasts the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world. After a recent visit to Mexico City, however, I'd say the sprawling metropolis has an excellent fighting chance—though it should be noted that as an ardent fan of mezcal and Mexican food, I'm extremely biased. After disembarking from our flight, my boy- friend and I made it our first mission to track down Micheladas, the unofficial national drink of Mexico. Micheladas typically contain Mexi- can lager, lime, salt, and hot sauce (Clamato or Worcestershire also often make appearances) in a glass rimmed with chili salt. Various itera- tions can be found throughout the city: For ex- ample, at the Mercado Lagunilla, a flea market held on Sundays in the city's historic center, 40 pesos (roughly three American dollars) will get you a sizable version in a Styrofoam cup. It's the perfect accompaniment for perusing the seemingly never-ending rows of antique furniture, silverware, and other items. At Arena México, meanwhile, servers will bring you Micheladas ringside while you watch masked wrestlers perform during the enor- mously popular luchador matches. And in the hip Roma Norte neighborhood, you can sit at the bar on the sidewalk outside seafood restaurant La Docena while slurping down freshly shucked oysters and Micheladas served in a 1-liter beer stein. Topped with two olives, half of a jalapeño, and three dried shrimp, the drink also features a straw smeared with tamarind paste dipped in a sweet yet potent mix of spices. In addition to its beloved Micheladas, Mexico City serves up some of the best cocktails I've One of innumerable versions of the drink found throughout the city, the sizeable Michelada at La Docena is served in a 1-liter beer stein. At Dulce Patria in Mexico City's Polanco District, Chef Martha Ortiz puts a feminine spin on traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional traditional Mexican dishes like chiles en nogada. FOLIO: ¡Nos Vamos a México! ACROSS THE BORDER FROM FLEA MARKETS TO FINE DINING, A CLEVER ROOT EDITOR EXPLORES THE DYNAMIC FOOD CULTURE OF MEXICO CITY by Jesse Hom-Dawson

• Cover