CleverRoot

9 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t 9 0 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t TOP 5 FAVES 1 2 3 4 5 TAKING ROOT IN THE LATE 1800S, many Japa- nese laborers emigrated to South America to work on farms, a move- ment that increased the number of nikkei—the native term for Japa- nese emigrants and their descen- dants—in the Western Hemisphere. Generations later, the influence of nikkei infuses itself into culi- nary concepts like San Francisco's Kaiyo, which blends Japanese and Peruvian cuisines. Executive Chef Michelle Mathews describes her approach at the restaurant as reflecting the "symbiotic relation- ship" of the two very different styles of cooking rather than simply fusing them. "We're trying to pay homage to Peru with dishes like the causa limeña," a traditional potato dish, while also incorporating Japanese staples like fish and Hokkaido scal- lops, the chef says. The challenge of representing various international cuisines in her food is hardly new to Mathews. After attending the French Culinary Institute, spending time in France, and eventually returning to New York, Mathews moved to San Francisco, where her culinary exploration deepened: Following her tenure at Spanish-style restaurant 15 Romolo, the chef later delved into Argentinian, Japanese, and Peruvian cooking. At Kaiyo, Mathews utilizes both California-sourced ingredients and imports from Peru and Japan, including fish from Tsukiji market, the largest wholesale seafood mar- ket in the world; scallops from Hokkaido; and Peruvian chilies, potatoes, and other vegetables. She also has plans to begin rotating the menu every three months to take advantage of seasonality while showcasing the freshness of her ingredients. Mathews' favorite dish to make is the scallop tiradito with passion fruit leche de ti- gre, sweet potato puree, chia seeds, and pickled red onion. "That one dish has a lot of complexity to it, but it's also simple," she explains. "You have very powerful flavors— the chiles, the peppers, and the purees that are sour and sweet—then you balance that with the fish from Japan that is very delicate." Having the opportunity to learn and develop my palate on a daily basis. Being able to mentor and teach one on one. Seeing team members pros- per both professionally and personally. The rush of a busy dinner ser- vice and the satisfaction you feel at the end of the night. When the team clicks. An unorganized kitchen. High-maintenance sushi chefs. Not getting food delivery on time. Tardiness. Not being proactive when problem-solving. OF KAIYO PERUVIAN NIKKEI, SAN FRANCISCO, CA with Chef Michelle Mathews 1 2 3 4 5 TOP 5 PET PEEVES ■cr by Madelyn Gagnon

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