Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
20 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018/2019 MALBEC-BASED WINE is a bit of a double-edged sword for me: something I have traditionally loved in its Old World European expression from France's Cahors region but have never quite em - braced in its New World incarnation from Argentina. Not to say the more modern Argentine version is lacking in quality, but I grew up on Cahors Malbec, and you never forget your first love. Yet after recently tasting three Malbecs made by winemakers Michel Rolland and Germán di Cesare on both sides of the Atlantic, I was forced to pause for some un - expected reflection. The first, the Eolo ($79; Fetzer Wines) from Argentine producer Trivento, was made by di Cesare in Men- doza. Founded in 1996 by Chilean producer Concha y Toro, Trivento is known mostly for wallet-friendly wines with broad appeal, but the Eolo, made from old-vine (1912) Mal - bec from a 10-acre vineyard in the Luján de Cuyo area, is a step above. It's a powerful, concentrated wine of great character that made me yearn for another sip. The other Argentine Malbec, Rolland's Clos de los Siete ($20; Deutsch Family Wines), costs significantly less than the Eolo but is no less refined in quality. Clos de los Siete, in which Rolland is a partner and not simply a consulting enologist, is situated in Mendoza's Uco Valley. It's prime Malbec territory, enabling Rolland to create elegant blends in which the variety always plays a dominant role. This wine shows great structure and perfect balance—two key ingredients of Rolland's signature style. The third wine was another Rolland offering, this time from Cahors. The Châ - teau Lagrézette Le Pigeonnier ($290; First Growth Brands), a 100% Malbec masterpiece, is Rolland's ode to Cahors' legacy as France's home base for produc - tion of the grape. This release encompass- es all the characteristics that make Cahors wines resonate: deep color, strong tannins, elegance, and an uncanny ability to age. Of the three wines, two altered my perception of Argentine Malbec as the other affirmed my memory of Cahors. When I asked Rolland to identify what he believes is the perfect place for Malbec production, he told me this: "Argentina is the best climate for consistently growing quality Malbec, as unlike France, Argentina can produce good Malbec from top to bottom, a distance of approximately 2,000 kilometers. It's not possible to do the same in Europe, as the region would span from London to Marrakech." The lesson here seems to be that whether your feet are planted in the Old World or the New, you shouldn't let presumption trip you up. { the ransom report } The Ransom Report is a column by The SOMM Journal's East Coast Editor David Ransom. In each issue, David will discuss what's currently on his mind and in his glass gathered from conversations and experiences in the world of wine, spirits, and hospitality. { the ransom report } A Tale of Two Malbecs COMPARING THE GRAPE'S OLD WORLD AND NEW WORLD STYLES Michel Rolland and his Clos de los Siete Malbec from Argentina. Le Pont Valentré, a 14th-century stone bridge, crosses the Lot River in Cahors, France. PHOTO COURTESY OF PANSOSUD360 VIA ADOBE STOCK PHOTO: DAVID RANSOM