Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
30 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018/2019 { up-and-coming } WHILE TEXANS HAVE BEEN making wine since the late 1600s, when Spanish mission- aries established one of North America's first vineyards in the El Paso area, commercial winemaking in the Lone Star State is still relatively young. In the 1960s, Texas Tech Uni- versity chemistry professor Clinton "Doc" McPherson planted experimental vineyards in what is now the Texas High Plains AVA to learn which grape varieties thrived in the state's challenging climate. Now one of eight AVAs in Texas, the 8-million-acre region west of Lubbock produces more than 80 percent of Texas' grapes, yielding Albariño, Grenache, Vermentino, Viognier, Tannat, and dozens more varieties. Here, grapes ripen slowly and retain acidity thanks to high elevations, sunny days, and cool nights. Fruit grown in High Plains and other Texas AVAs then finds its way into wines made by some 400 wineries statewide. On October 19 at Spicewood Vineyards, five of Texas' most distinguished producers gathered for the fifth annual Texas Fine Wine Dinner, where guests enjoyed fare paired with outstanding wines from throughout the Hill Country and beyond. Together, the five Texas Fine Wine members—Brennan Vineyards, Pedernales Cellars, Duchman Family Winery, Bending Branch Winery, and Spicewood Vineyards—work to educate both consumers and the trade about the potential of Texas-grown grapes. "The main issue that we deal with in Texas is lack of respect," says Brennan Vineyards owner Pat Brennan, whose winery in Comanche produces award-winning bottlings under the tute - lage of Winemaker Todd Webster. "But when people taste our wines, it's a different story." When it comes to selecting "the best wines suited for Texas' climate," Pedernales Cellars co-founder Julie Kuhlken advises reaching for varieties like Albariño, Tempranillo, Carignan, and Nero d'Avola before purchasing more familiar names like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. But regardless of the grape, Duchman Family Winery Winemaker Dave Reilly says he's proud to support hardworking farmers in the state. "I started out as a grower, and I believe Texas wine should support Texas agriculture," he says. From left to right: Brennan Vineyards Winemaker Todd Webster; Spicewood Vineyards owner Ron Yates; Pedernales Cellars co-founder Julie Kuhlken and her brother, David Kuhlken; Bending Branch Winery General Manager Jennifer McInnis Fadel; and Duchman Family Winery Winemaker Dave Reilly celebrate the Texas harvest in Spicewood Vineyards' barrel room. The Lone Star State Pairs Up Pairings featured at the Texas Fine Wine Dinner included the following: Brennan Vineyards 2017 Lily This floral blend of Roussanne and Malvasia Bianca paired beautifully with grilled shrimp. Pedernales Cellars 2006 GSM Mé- lange A Rhône-style blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and Tannat, it complemented the beef tartare with Texas quail eggs. Duchman Family Winery 2017 Viognier Crisp and aromatic with a nose of apricot and peach, this wine sang with halibut and sweet potato gnocchi. Bending Branch Winery 2014 Tannat Notes of plum, cocoa, and vanilla brought out the sweetness of Texas quail. Spicewood Vineyards 2014 The Good Guy This lush blend of Tempranillo, Gracia - no, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah accented the smokiness of grilled lamb. High Praise from the High Plains THE ANNUAL TEXAS FINE WINE DINNER PUTS THE STATE'S GROWING WINE INDUSTRY ON DISPLAY story and photo by Lori Moffatt