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{ SOMMjournal.com } 47 ment–derived white soil in which it's grown, is currently the only varietally true Torbato imported to the U.S. and is quickly gaining cult status among sommeliers and wine geeks. An Alghero Torbato Spumante Brut, meanwhile, is due in 2019. Among those sommeliers in the know is Brent Kroll, proprietor of Maxwell Park wine bar in Washington, D.C. He tells The SOMM Journal that he was blown away by his first taste of Torbato. "My introduction was the 2008 vin - tage, and it was ridiculously delicious," he recalls, adding that the wine was juicy and tropical like ripe Albariño yet showed a developed petrol note akin to aged Riesling. "What I really like about Torbato is its medium-plus body weight and its great concentration of fruit and savory limestone-mineral characteristics. I paired it with soft-shell crab and it totally crushed it." Essential to Sella & Mosca's lasting success is its diehard commitment to tradition and innovation, which coexist harmoniously on the wind-sprayed, salty shores of Sardinia. "Sella & Mosca wines are truly, traditionally Sardinian," observes Gagliano, noting that 65 percent of Sella & Mosca wines are consumed on the island by locals and tourists. But thanks to Taub Family Selections, consumers in the U.S. can also now be surprised and delighted by one of Sardinia's sweetest secrets: the wondrous wines of Sella & Mosca. Reviews by Meridith May, Publisher & Editorial Director Sella & Mosca 2017 Le Arenarie, Alghero DOC ($18) This wine is named for the ero - sion of ancient lay- ers of sandstone on which these Sau- vignon Blanc vines are grown. With a nose of vetiver and tarragon, the wine's mouth-filling creaminess tastes of lemon oil, red pep - per, and slate. Sella & Mosca 2016 Vermen- tino, di Gallura DOCG ($27) A savory perfumed wine with notes of hazelnuts and shrubs. The creamy, luxe mouthfeel is sharpened a bit by fine acidity. Key lime shows on the mid-palate alongside the iconic nutty flavors of this esteemed variety. Sella & Mosca 2014 Tanca Farra, Alghero DOC ($27) A rustic beauty, this is an equal blend of Cabernet Sauvi - gnon and Cannon- au. Spiced herbs and exotic black tea season ripe cherries. Maxwell Park proprietor Brent Kroll is quick to praise Sella & Mosca's Torbato-based wines. Two versions of Sella & Mosca are served at Maxwell Park in Washington, D.C. PHOTO: NICK KLEIN PHOTO: NICK KLEIN