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{ SOMMjournal.com } 5 here's a yin and yang to winegrowing in the Americas: As the vines in North America are stirring to life, the vineyards in South America are ready for harvest. As much as Chile and neighboring Argentina have in common with Califor - nia—namely international grape varieties, abundant sunshine, and, oftentimes, similar aspects of terroir—those similarities serve as a point of departure for differentiating the quality and style of New World wines. To that effect, a stage was recently set at The Grill on the Alley in Chicago's Lincoln Park neighborhood for a friendly competition between hemispheres. Joining me for a comparative tasting that spanned the depth and breadth of Viña Concha y Toro's North and South American portfolios were Italo Jofré, the company's charismatic Santiago-based fine wine export manager, and a group of Chicago's leading sommeliers and retailers. Our first flight deconstructed the terroirs of two Chardon - nays poured alongside appetizers and a classic Caesar salad. After segueing into an in-depth look at two Pinot Noirs, the tasting then progressed through five monovarietal wines and Bordeaux blends paired with pan-seared salmon, chicken piccata, and com - posed steak salad. A Tale of Two Chardonnays Just 14 miles from the Pacific coastline, the Quebrada Seca Vineyard in the Limarí region lies in what's known as Chile's costa (coastal) terroir on the western edge of the Atacama Deser t. "This deser t is the driest place on the planet," Jofré said as he explained the factors of terroir behind the Marqués de Casa Concha 2016 Chardonnay ($22). "The unique limestone soils of Limarí protect the acidity in the grapes, resulting in very fresh wines." Given the arid nature of this cool coastal region, the limestone- rich clay soils also help retain water for the Mendoza-clone Char - donnay vines planted on the north bank of the Limarí River. Viña Concha y Toro Technical Director Marcelo Papa presses whole clusters and sends just 5 percent of the wine through malolactic fermentation before it spends 12 months in neutral barrels. "The bright fruit of this Chardonnay took us by surprise," said Nancy Sabatini, Director of Wine Education and Sales for Main - street Wines & Spirits just outside Chicago. "There was consensus around the table that it was more Burgundian in style, with fresh- ness and vibrant flavors of green apple and ripe lemon." Limarí has now become Chile's go-to terroir for Chardonnay, with its riper styles readily compared to those from Northern California sites near the Russian River. In Mendocino's Sanel Valley, a narrow, 5-mile-long valley that formed as a flood plain of the Russian River, Bonterra's single-vineyard The Roost 2016 Char - donnay ($45) is sourced from the Biodynamic Blue Heron Ranch vineyard. Located between the Russian River and a Blue Heron nature preserve, the vineyard lies 50 miles from the coast and sees a significant diurnal swing of as much as 50 degrees during the growing season. Dijon and Wente Chardonnay clones are planted to alluvial Riverine soils and the Hopland series of sandy loam over Franciscan bedrock of sandstone and shale. Bonterra Winemaker Jeff Cichocki uses a gentle hand with the refined The Roost Chardonnay, which was first released in 2001. Crafted from 80 percent free-run juice, 70 percent of which un - derwent malolactic fermentation, The Roost sees 30 percent new French oak for 18 months and shows golden apple, lemon crème, and secondary notes of fragrant baking spice. Dialing in Pinot Noir The cool nights and foggy mornings of Chile's Casablanca Valley, also a costa terroir, are ideal for Pinot Noir. The lion's share of the Cono Sur 2016 Ocio Pinot Noir ($75) is sourced from the red clay and sandy granitic soils of El Triangulo Estate, with the remainder of the fruit hailing from nearby San Juan de Huinca in Leyda. Eighty percent of the wine sees an assortment of new and used French oak, with 20 percent aging more aerobically in large- format foudres. Cono Sur Winemaker Matías Ríos has dialed in the aromas and flavors of this region for a wine that shows meaty tobacco notes, complex red fruits, and harmonious oak elements. "Our customers gravitate to Chilean Pinot Noirs, which are delicious and come from distinctive terroirs," Sabatini said, adding Viña Concha y Toro's iconic Don Melchor and Trivento Eolo Malbec.