Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
{ SOMMjournal.com } 85 So, there's probably no cannabis-infused whisky in the pipeline—at least, not from Scotland—but it seems these restrictions have sparked a new period of innovation for at least one producer : William Grant & Sons. Surely no one at the company would be bold enough to tinker with the taste, aroma, and color of its leading single malt, Glenfiddich? Think again. The brand's Malt Master, Brian Kinsman, has been playing tunes with wood to remarkable effect for the Experimental Series, which Glenfid - dich describes as "a new range of single malts that combines the brand's passion for pushing boundaries and collaborating with trailblazers beyond the world of whisky." The series debuted in October 2016 with the Glenfiddich India Pale Ale Cask Finish (43%; $70), which claimed to be the world's first single malt Scotch whisky finished in IPA craft beer casks. Actually, bearing those SWA regulations in mind, it likely wasn't the first, but rather a revival of a long-lost traditional practice. Distillers of yore would certainly have reused beer casks and, as whisky and beer are old friends and good stablemates, the resulting dram certainly passed taste tests. Kinsman proved he had more in the pipeline in early 2017 with the unveiling of his Project XX (47%; $80) expression. The production process involved asking 20 whisky mavens from around the world to select a cask from the depths of Glenfiddich's Speyside warehouses, which he would then blend to create the finished product. Twenty experts, 20 casks—hence Project XX. The label signified much more than a temporary break from his usual ap - proach for Kinsman, who explains that the project acted as "an exciting chal- lenge to marry [the casks] in a way that did justice to the original sources." The melding of these disparate vessels yielded multiple personalities: the trademark pineapple character of a classic Glenfiddich bolstered by rich Port tannins with a hint of licorice and layered flavors of candy floss, cinnamon spice, and almonds. Later in 2017, the unusual Winter Storm (43%; $250) was released. It's the 21 Year Old Glenfiddich with a North American touch, as the spirit was finished in ice wine casks from Ontario's renowned Peller Estates winery. Wine casks have historically been used in Scotland, but this is unusual and a bold use of the limited supplies of a premium extra-aged single malt. "Only the rarer whiskies could cope with the extra ice-wine intensity," says Kinsman. "Armed with more tannins extracted from years in oak, these malts brought out a uniquely fresh lychee note rather than being overwhelmed by sweetness." The Experimental Series has evolved most recently through its fourth release, Fire & Cane (43%; $50). It's a serious bar - gain that offers up an unexpected peaty twist on Glenfid- dich that's tempered by the sweetness of rum-cask finishing. It's unexpected, certainly, and very much in the spirit of innovation that characterizes this Glenfiddich range. This is clever stuff all malt fans can applaud: something fresh and different yet well within the rules of Scotch's heritage and tradition. Even those picky millennials should appreciate this! Twenty global whisky experts each selected a cask for Malt Master Brian Kinsman to blend into Glenfiddich's Project XX expression. The Fire & Cane bottling from the Experimental Series finishes in rum casks. PHOTO: JACOB TYLER DUNN "A NEW RANGE OF SINGLE MALTS THAT COMBINES THE BRAND'S PASSION FOR PUSHING BOUNDARIES AND COLLABORATING WITH TRAILBLAZERS BEYOND THE WORLD OF WHISKY."