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88 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018/2019 { seminars & tastings } WHEN ASKED ABOUT the winemaking philosophy at Wente Vineyards during a recent gathering in Boston to celebrate the company's135th anniversary, fifth- generation winemaker Karl Wente said Wente Vineyards and its leadership are "in this for the love of the journey." "We don't make wine because we have to, we do it because we love to," he added. As the clan behind the oldest continuously oper - ated family-owned winery in the United States, the Wentes have earned the title of "America's First Family of Chardonnay." Just outside of Boston, Massachusetts, on a sultry afternoon in early Septem - ber—the same day the Wente Sauvignon Blanc harvest began in Livermore Valley, California—a group of eager wine profes- sionals gathered to honor Wente Vine- yards' enormous contributions to the wine industry in the Golden State and beyond. Upon arrival, guests sipped glasses of the richly textured 2008 J. Schram Reserve sparkling wine from Napa Valley's Schrams - berg Estate; made predominantly with Old Wente Clone Chardonnay, the wine also contains a small percentage of Pinot Noir. Sponsored by Martignetti Distribu - tion, the seminar and tasting were led by Bridget Epp, Vice President of Luxury Sales and Education at Wente Vineyards, and Todd Lipman, Wine Director of the wine festivals in Nantucket, Massachusetts, and Newport, Rhode Island. As the room filled to capacity, Epp raised her glass toward Lipman, proclaiming, "This is a talk borne of passion, a celebration of innovation in winemaking!" In response, Lipman tipped his signature derby hat and toasted "to Chardonnay, the chameleon grape!" The discussion ventured back to 1883, when Carl Wente officially established his winery in Livermore Valley, an area famed for its enviable grape-growing condi - tions. Those early vineyards were planted with Chardonnay cuttings from Charles Wetmore, the first President and Chief Viticultural Officer of California who had traveled to Meursault in Burgundy for vine cuttings. Another pivotal year arrived in 1912, when Carl's son Ernest brought more Chardonnay cuttings to the proper ty from Montpelier, France, adding to the plantings he'd brought from the Gier Vineyard in Pleasanton, California. These plantings bir thed the famed Wente Clone, and in 1936, Ernest and his brother Her - man released the first varietally labeled American Chardonnay. Today, the original Old Wente Clone has spawned an esti- mated 80 percent of Chardonnay grown in California. The first Wente Chardonnay attendees tasted during the event was the 2017 Eric's Small Lot Chardonnay, a racy, high-toned wine from Livermore Valley. The 2016 Morning Fog Chardonnay, also from Liver - more Valley and aptly named for the rush of morning fog over the vineyards, showed lively acidity and heady tropical fruits, while the 2016 Single Vineyard Riva Ranch Char - donnay from Arroyo Seco was voluptuous with seductive salinity. The 2016 Nth degree Chardonnay from the Ernest and Herman vineyards in Livermore Valley, meanwhile, is only made in vintages deemed "exception - al": With pleasant minerality and appealing aromatics, it was the most layered and nuanced of the bunch. An exploration of bottlings produced by esteemed wineries and derived from the original Old Wente Clone followed. "Every single day we strive to be better than the day before," Karl said of his family's company, and if that's the case, then consider the mission accomplished: Each wine, defined by pristine winemaking techniques and the shared lin - eage of a thoughtfully selected clone, showed effortless balance and grace. Bridget Epp, Vice President of Luxury Sales and Education at Wente Vineyards, led the seminar and tasting in Boston with Todd Lipman, Wine Director of the wine festivals in Nantucket, MA, and Newport, RI. Better Than the Day Before WENTE VINEYARDS CELEBRATES 135 YEARS AT A SEMINAR AND TASTING IN BOSTON by Paige Farrell / photos by Josh Reynolds