Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
38 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018/2019 { steven spurrier's letter from london } A Most Exciting Future IN THE OPINION of Fermín Hidalgo, whose family has produced fine Sherry for several generations in the seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain, the future of the category lies in its past. In October, Hidalgo accompanied a group I hosted for a visit to Jerez de la Frontera as we surveyed the extensive vineyards behind his family's famous fortified wines. Vines were first brought to this region of Andalusia by the Phoenicians in 1100 B.C. Legend tells that the navigator Magellan spent more on Sherry than on weapons for his voyage to discover the Americas, and in 1587, Sir Frances Drake attacked Cadiz and carried off 3,000 butts of the wine. The heist popularised Sherry in both the Court of Elizabeth I and the writings of Shakespeare. One of Sherry's golden ages in the mid-19th century was dashed by phylloxera, but the early decades of the 20th century found the category conquering world markets. The subsequent period of overexpansion and decreasing quality in the 1960s was rectified as producers reduced the vineyard area by half and rediscovered the value of extended aging in historic above-ground cellars known as bodegas. (The fact that some of the solera-aged wines I tasted on the trip can trace their origins back a full century all but affirmed Hidalgo's assertion about Sherry's future.) The major grape in the area is Palomino, which is supplemented by some Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez for the production of sweet wines. Sherry's biggest asset is its incredible diversity of styles—from the palest Fino to the dark amber of Oloroso, from bone-dry to dense richness—making it the only wine in the world that can truly complement every element of a multicourse meal. In order of serving, here are the Sherries built to match any menu: Fino The purity of the Palomino grape ages imper- ceptibly under the non-oxidative flor del vino in 500-liter American oak butts filled to five-sixths. The sharp, yeasty aroma of this pale-yellow wine leads to a vibrantly refreshing palate. Usually 15–18% alcohol. Top brands are La Ina, Tio Pepe, and Valdespino's Innocente. Fino "en Rama" Bottled off its lees without filtration, this Sherry is more vigorous and textured altogether yet still bone-dry. Manzanilla If aged in Sanlúcar, the Palomino grape acquires tangier and saltier characteristics and is known as Manzanilla. Top brands are La Gitana and La Guita. Also made "en rama." Amontillado This style gains colour and nuttiness after 8–10 years under "flor"; it's then transferred to oxidative aging to gain additional colour and flavour while remaining dry. This is ideal either as an apéritif or as a partner for white meats and cheese. Oloroso Ranging from rich amber to dark mahogany depending on time spent in barrel, this style is richly textured but not sweet, making it perfect for game and red meats. Palo Cortado This complex, sought-after style offers the bouquet of Amontillado and the body of Olo- roso. Marries well both with consommé and mature cheeses. Generoso These are blended sweet styles typified by Har- veys Bristol Cream as well as naturally rich wines from Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes left on straw mats to concentrate their sugar. They're best consumed at the end of a meal. LENDING SOME BACKGROUND AND PERSPECTIVE ON SHERRY PHOTO COURTESY OF JAN VER DER VOORT VIA ADOBE STOCK A vineyard in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain.