Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
40 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018/2019 { southern hemisphere } LOCATED 260 MILES south of Melbourne, the island of Tasmania is the land down under the "Land Down Under." Its capital city, Hobart, is actually closer to the Antarctic Circle than to Darwin, Australia. On October 2, award-winning Aus - tralian wine writer Tyson Stelzer made the considerable trek to San Francisco to lead the second annual Tasmanian Showcase USA for U.S. trade and media. "Tasmania is Australia's epicenter of cool-climate viticulture, producing wines that have set mainland Australia buzzing," Stelzer told The SOMM Journal. "It is far and away Australia's sparkling capital, but its still wines are also highly sought after there." In fact, high domestic demand leaves just 5 percent of Tasmanian wine production available for export. Par ticularly respected for his guides on Champagne, Stelzer said the Tasma - nian advantage in the global sparkling wine category is considerable quality at an affordable price. Despite the afore- mentioned high demand and low vol- ume, Tasmanian fruit sells for one-third the price of that in Champagne. "My strong belief, reinforced by many tast- ings and echoed by opinion leaders not only across Australia, but most notably the Champenois themselves, is that no region outside of Champagne produces sparkling wine as fine as Tasmania," he explained. That's not to say wines from the two regions are the same, because, as Stelzer added, "Tasmania is a world away from Champagne in every way." "While [Tasmanian] makers borrow the method and work fanatically to fol - low the quality cues of their nor thern French counterpar ts, no self-respecting Tasmanian sparkling maker is pretend- ing to make Champagne," he said. "Champagne has chalk; Tasmania does not. Tasmania has more sunshine and a more maritime climate." Tasmanian wines, however, are more than memorable enough to stand on their own. For example, the terrific Apo - gee 2014 Deluxe Vintage Rosé ($98), which shows notes of brioche, custard, underripe raspberry, spice, and dried lemongrass, is luxurious on the palate with a creamy mousse and mineral- tinged finish. As showcased at the San Francisco event, Tasmanian Pinot Noirs can also make an exceptional impression. While their character varies appropriately between regions and vintages, they consistently show medium-plus body, moderate alcohol levels, and beautifully refined tannins. Most of the grape's Tasmanian producers aren't yet dis- tributed in the United States, but they deserve to be. As for selections that are available here, the Dalrymple 2015 Cottage Block Pinot Noir 2015 ($79) is long and profound with intense flavors of dried cranberry, tea, drying herbs, and sarsaparilla. Tasmanian wines have an unmistak - able wow factor : excellent quality, good value, and the mystique of a little-known region. Expect to see more of them coming this way soon. A cool-climate vineyard in Tasmania. The Tasmanian Advantage SMALL AND REMOTE, TASMANIA IS AUSTRALIA'S LEAST-KNOWN GREAT WINE REGION by Fred Swan