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74 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } DECEMBER/JANUARY 2018/2019 the purity of their expression, she felt like her efforts were being reflected somewhat minimally in the broader portfolio. To solve this dilemma, they launched an amphora- specific label, Le Anfore, to produce small batches of wine fermented and aged entirely in amphorae. The project stretches across all three of the family's wineries, comprising pure expressions of Sangiovese, Syrah, Can- nonau (Grenache), Trebbiano, Moscato, Semidano, and Malvasco (Malvasia and Nasco). Unfortunately, the brand is not yet available in the States, but it's my hope that inquiries soon pour in, as I've never tasted wines—especially Syrah—quite like this. While the whites are made in a fashion akin to orange wine, taking on a grilled- peach quality due to extended maceration on the skins, the reds exhibit a minerality and varietal expression that causes one to question the widespread reliance on oak-aging. Casadei: International Varieties in Suvereto DOCG A few miles from the Etruscan Coast in Maremma, Tuscany, sits the medieval village of Suvereto, whose original stone walls still encompass the downtown area of this charming city on a hill. On the outskirts of a town in the recently established Suvere- to DOCG is the Casadei estate, a 40-acre vineyard planted to international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah. Stefano, who originally planted the vine- yard in 1997, had reluctantly considered selling it over the years. In 2012, he and Anna met vintners Fred and Nancy Cline, the founders of Cline Cellars in Sonoma who had traveled to Tuscany in pursuit of purchasing a vineyard. Anna had already drafted the paperwork for the sale when Stefano and Fred took a walk through the estate. As they smelled the soil and dis- cussed the future of the land, they quickly realized that they shared the same ethical farming principles, so instead of a sale, a partnership was formed and the vision for the winery and tasting room was con- ceived. This year marks the winery's very first harvest on this estate property. All Casadei wines are fermented only in amphorae or concrete before aging in a combination of amphorae and oak. The property is farmed according to the estate's BioIntegrale standards, which facili- tates the use of horses and the prolifera- tion of beneficial insects, including bees and wasps. According to Stefano, several fruit trees are spaced throughout the vineyard that serve a greater purpose: Overripe fruit will fall to the ground and naturally ferment, making enzymes and yeast more readily available. The insects, meanwhile, devour the fruit and become carriers of the native yeast in the vineyard. "When the grapes are harvested, they'll easily start the natural fer- mentation and deliver unique aromas and characteristics to our wines," says Tommaso Venturi, Sales Director for all Casadei family wines. "This is a bit more complicated, but it's more personal and unique." Proprietors Stefano and Anna Casadei. The Casadei winery only uses vessels that allow for oxygen exchange, among them amphorae, concrete, and wood. The Casadei team, which works closely with animals, is "obliged to respect the soil in a more natural way," Stefano says.