Issue link: https://www.e-digitaleditions.com/i/1061132
{ SOMMjournal.com } 93 Although each city tasted eight differ- ent wines with some overlap between locales, one overarching message served as a common thread at each competition: Labeling Por tuguese wines as traditional in style is an outdated notion. "There are some really dynamic, engaging, young winemakers who are going in and using the latest and the greatest techniques," Morano said. "On this tour we're present - ing winemakers doing natural wine [and] whole-bunch fermentation, Biodynamic producers, and then, yes, a few tradition - ally driven producers, but in Por tugal there's a little bit of everything." This "little bit of everything" gets classi- fied into three levels in terms of designa- tion: DOCs/DOPs, of which there are 31, at the top; IG/IGP regional wines, of which there are 14, in the middle; and Vinho/table wines at the bottom. It's worth noting that a few well-made Portuguese wines are labeled Vinho as result of their respective producers choosing to work outside the regulatory confines established by the Comissão VitivinÃcola Regional (CVR). Three major climatic influences dictate the character of Portuguese wines: the Atlantic Ocean along the western coast creates a fresher style; the continental in - fluence along the mountainous northeast- ern side of Portugal results in a full-bodied, riper character ; and the Mediterranean influence in the southern plains imparts a softer, more fruit-forward style. The following trio of wines proved ex - cellent examples of their respective region and climatic influence: Vinho Verde Vinho Verde, the largest DOC in Por - tugal, covers 21,000 hectares of vine- yards with primar- ily granitic soils. Its close proximity to the Atlantic Ocean means heavy rainfall, a longer growing season, and moderate temperatures. These combined elements translate to a lower alcohol content and high acid - ity. Blends typically consist of Loureiro, Alvarinho, and Trajadura. The Quinta de Soalheiro 2017 Alvarinho from Vinho Verde is a perfect example of the region's signature freshness. Made by one the pioneering producers of the area using grapes from a granitic vine - yard planted in 1974, this is a bright yet substantial and minerality-driven Alvarihno capable of a decade of aging. Alentejo With hot, dry summers and cold winters, Alentejo ben - efits from a strong continental influ- ence. The rural, flat region covers roughly one-third of Portugal. Common red varieties include Aragonez, Trincadeira, and Alicante Bouschet as well as a handful of international grapes; making use of a more uncommon variety, however, is the A Touriga Vai Nua 2017 Touriga Nacional. Akin to a denser Beaujolais, this single-varietal wine goes through carbonic maceration and native fermentation before aging in stainless steel for three months. Sweet, ripe red and blue fruits remain bright at the core as lavender plays in the background. The Douro The Douro is the classic representa - tion of Portuguese winemaking, particu- larly when it comes to Port. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, this area, formally established in 1756, was Portugal's first demarcated and regulated region. The continental influence is also significant here, with summer temperatures reaching 120 degrees and eventually giving way to near-freezing winters. More than 60 native grape varieties are grown here in predominantly schist soils. The Quinta do Vallado 2015 Reserva Field Blend comes from one of the old - est producers in the Douro Valley (the winery was established in 1716). This field blend from old vines, some more than 100 years old, features 45 grape varieties and is made using traditional techniques like the lagares method, in which the grapes are foot-treaded in granite vessels. Aged in 60 percent new French oak, the wine is dark and dense with gritty tannins; blackberry, plum, and a touch of vanilla suit the hefty structure. PHOTO: FELIX SANCHEZ The Featured Regions (and Wines) Sheri Sauter Morano tastes along with the Houston attendees. PHOTO: TODD WESTPHAL PHOTO: TODD WESTPHAL PHOTO: TODD WESTPHAL