First, some pre-trip homework: a short book called Why New
Orleans Matters. It argues persuasively that post-Katrina, the
city should be redeveloped bottom-up instead of top-down to
benefit the masses, who are the backbone of New Orleans. It
offers a clear-eyed look at the city – warts and all. For firsters
and those who haven't visited since Katrina, it's a valuable
reminder that that the Quarter isn't the end-all, be-all.
Once you arrive, take a guided bike tour from Fat Tire, whose
Beyond the French Quarter tour is a best-of-all-worlds ride
that starts in the Quarter and covers a number of outlying
neighborhoods. My spin with six or eight other tourists and
Cam – the accessible, knowledgeable, perspective-rich guide
– was among the highlights of my most recent trip. I learned
more about this complex, history-laden city – not just the
what, but the why – in those few hours than I knew from my
20 earlier visits combined. If you're neither leg-up nor lung-
up, you'll still be fine – New Orleans is flat, the tour stops
frequently to see sights and understand where they fit in the
bigger picture, and the pace is the equivalent of a canter. The
tour includes a ride through City Park, a stately oasis lined
with live oak trees and Spanish moss – a feast for the eyes.
